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Retail therapy is everywhere in the Red City. (One jaded European resident was heard to remark that there is nothing to do in Marrakech but shop.) The souks are filled with craft items and if the idea of a suffocating summer afternoon in the souks is too much, Guéliz has some very upmarket boutiquey places with air conditioning. Though many items will be familiar (Marrakech also exports crafts by the ton), prices are lower than in Europe and you can get an idea of how much you should expect to pay by visiting the government-run craft centre, the ensemble artisanal, on Avenue Mohammed V. The big plus of shopping in Marrakech – and to a lesser extent, Essaouira – is that there is good stuff for all pockets. You can find very reasonably priced thuya wood boxes and trays, painted wood mirrors, ceramics and belgha (leather slippers). Wrought iron mirror frames, for example, are cheap – but a little awkward to pass as hand-luggage. At the top end of the market, there are now a number of purveyors of haut décor, most of whom are able to ship back to Europe.
Since the early 1990s, craft production has taken off in a big way, with a range of new products, notably in metal and ceramic, being added to classic leather and wood items. The influence of the international decorator set can also clearly be felt. Close to the Dar El Pacha, in the Bab Doukkala neighbourhood, are plenty of antique dealers, and in Guéliz, innovative and chic interiors boutiques.
Generally, the best bargains are of course to be had in the médina souks and the regional markets held once a week in country villages. Prices in Guéliz are fixed and often more expensive than the médina. However, bear in mind that if you visit a médina shop with an official tourist guide, his commission will be built into what you pay for your purchases. Don’t be pushed into buying what you don’t want: craftwork overdose can leave you feeling a little dazed and confused. See box on bargaining techniques, next page.
Opening hours are irregular, but as a general rule, places in Guéliz open around 0900 and close for a long lunch break from 1230/1300 to 1430/1500, evening closing being around 1900. In the médina, many smaller shops close all Friday afternoon, from 1130 onwards, and Sundays, too. Big tourist bazaar type places open everyday.
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