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Of the two mountain routes over the High Atlas to the southern side of the mountains, the P31 from Marrakech to Ouarzazate, and its Tizi-n-Tichka pass, is the larger road and safer option. Completed in 1936 by the Foreign Legion, the P31 gives stunning views. It runs through the full range of Atlas environments, from the Haouz plains, through the verdant foothills of the Oued Zat, to the barren peaks of the Atlas and the arid regions around Ouarzazate.
For the Tizi-n-Tichka route, take the Fès road east out of Marrakech. A right turn takes you onto the P31 Marrakech to Ouarzazate road. Total distance from Marrakech to Ouarzazate is nearly 200 km. You should pace yourself. Good places to stop include upper Taddert (very busy, 86 km from Marrakech), the Tizi-n-Tichka itself which is almost exactly half way, or Ighrem-n-Ouagal, about 118 km from Marrakech where there is an old agadir (granary) to visit. Driving carefully in good conditions, Marrakech to Taddert will take you 2 hours, while Taddert to Ouarzazate is about another 2 hours. NB Drivers need maximum concentration on this route, especially in the twilight when as likely as not you will meet donkeys and flocks of sheep wandering across the road, guided by small children. Clapped- out local buses break down, and there are some very hairy bits leading up to the pass after Taddert. Don’t cut corners. Fossil sellers hanging out at viewpoints and café stops are a further hazard. Also note that in winter, there can be heavy cloud cover, snow storms and icy rain, reducing visibility and making the road extremely slippery. In such conditions, the road is not much fun at night. If snow cuts the pass, then the Gendarmerie royale puts the snow barriers down.
The road to Ouarzazate
At 36 km from Marrakech, you are on the Aït Ourir by-pass. Then the road climbs through the foothills with some splendid views down over the olive groves of the Oued Zat. About 46 km from Marrakech, look out for the turn off right (south) to Larbaa Tighdouine, a small settlement of concrete houses down in the valley. There’s an entertaining minor excursion here: ford the river by mule and ride up to the tiny springs of Sidi el Ouaji. Local families fill plastic bottles with the water, reputed for its curative powers. Under the trees around the spring are the usual tea and tajine stands. Walkers note: from Larbaa Tighdouine, you can trek on up to the Plateau du Yagour (with its prehistoric rock carvings) and eventually, over to Setti Fatma (see above).
Back on the P31, climbing fairly steeply, you’ll pass the Grouka hunting reserve followed by some Forestry Department buildings, a survival of French times. Shortly before the high pass is the village of Taddert, sprawling in two fairly unsightly parts. Take a tagine-break in upper Taddert, the best eaterie being the last one on your right, as you head for Ouarzazate. Shortly after Taddert, a more peaceful café sits conveniently below a hairpin bend before the big climb to the pass itself.
A few kilometres after the pass, and 19.5 km from Taddert, is a sharp turning on the left which takes you onto 20 km of narrow but tarmacked road leading to Kasbah Telouet (see below). From the pass the road winds and sweeps down to Ouarzazate. At Ighrem-n-Ouagal (1,970 m) there is a fine fortified granary to visit. At Agouim, 126 km from Marrakech, a piste comes in from the west.The next point of interest is Amerzgane, where there is a turn-off right (west) for Taroudant and the neighbouring ruins of Tasgedlt. At 191 km from Marrakech, there’s a right turn off onto the road for Zagora which enables you to avoid Ouarzazate – and passes just by the spectacular Kasbah of Tiffoultoute.
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