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Breakfast on coffee and a sfogliatella at the exceptionally classy Bar Gambrinus on piazza Trieste e Trento, followed by a quick stroll around the adjacent piazza del Plebiscito, the grand centre of the city. Don’t linger too long though or you’ll miss the churches, many of which close at 1230. Wander up via Toledo to piazza Carità, where you can head right to piazza Monteoliveto, where Sant’Anna dei Lombardi has a stunning collection of Renaissance frescoes and sculpture. Just along from here is piazza del Gesù, and the beginning of the atmospheric Centro Storico, the heart of old Naples. A good circuit from here would be to stroll down ‘Spaccanapoli’, the long straight road which heads east from here to via Duomo, and take a look at the Duomo (cathedral) itself before heading back along via Tribunali. Along the way there are plenty of churches you can take in, but don’t miss the beautiful cloisters of Santa Chiara or the Caravaggio altarpiece in Pio Monte della Misericordia. For lunch try the excellent Cantina di via Sapienza, just to the north, or head west into the Quartieri Spagnoli for a real taste of Neapolitan home cooking at Trattoria Casillo Enzo. In the afternoon head further north up via Toledo and its continuations to the extraordinary Museo Archeologico, filled with Roman sculptures and mosaics. Don’t miss out either on the intriguing Gabinetto Segreto, a room of ancient pornography. By the time you’ve finished here the shops should be open again after their siesta and you can wander back down via Toledo, stopping en route at Gelateria Scimmia (piazza Carità) for an excellent ice-cream. From your starting point on piazza Trieste e Trento the smart shopping street of via Chiaia heads west to Chiaia itself. Along here too is Brandi, Naples’ most famous pizzeria (should you be hungry again). Alternatively continue into Chiaia and find one of its excellent restaurants. La Cantina di Albi Cocca is a good option if you want to stay out late as it has excellent food alongside a long wine and beer list. If you’re still up for more, Chiaia is also one of the best areas for clubs: try Velvet or Tongue on via dei Mille, both of which will keep you busy until well into the early hours.
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