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The big Neapolitan question is not ‘how much has the city changed?’ but ‘how deep do the changes go?’ Underneath some beautification and despite a new-found sense of self-confidence, some serious and fundamental problems still need addressing.
From the UK, Naples presents no problem in terms of its accessibility. The quickest and cheapest way of getting to the city is to take advantage of the no-frills airlines, either to Naples itself or to reasonably-nearby Rome. It is, of course, possible to take the train all the way from London (via Paris and Rome) but, despite being an infinitely more civilized way of travelling, this will take the best part of a day and cost considerably more. If you intend to drive, allow at least two days. From North America you will need to fly to Rome or Milan and change there. There are no direct flights to Italy from Australasia, and a stopover in London is probably your best bet. Public transport has improved massively in the last few years in Naples and is now good and generally reliable. Buses cover most of the city and the surrounding area and there is also a relatively comprehensive rail network, including a metro system in the city and, of course, the good old funiculars of Funiculì Funiculà fame.
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