Teatro delle Palme, via Vetriera 12, T 081-418134. Teatro di San Carlo, tickets: via San Carlo 98f, T 081-7972331, http://www.teatrosancarlo.it Tue-Sat 1000-1300, 1630-1830, Sun 1000-1300. The San Carlo is one of the most prestigious opera houses in Italy, and the standard of concerts and opera here is world-class if seldom mould-breaking. Audiences tend to be demanding but steadfastly traditional. Capable of seating over 1,000 people, it is also one of the biggest. The acoustics are also famously good, and the interior is breathtakingly grand. Prices vary depending on the music, but start at around €20, €26 for opera. An excellent selection of classical concerts is held in the Villa Rufolo in Ravello. These are particularly popular in the summer when they are held outdoors in the gardens with the spectacular backdrop of the Amalfi Coast. Naples’ most famous era as a source of popular song was the first few decades of the 20th century. While the stereotype singing of O Sole Mio on street corners may be hard to track down, you’ll prob- ably hear it, and Funicolì Funicolà, or at least their descendants, in many bars, cafés and restaurants around the city. The origins of these sentimental but heartfelt outpourings lie partly in Neapolitan opera, but also in a long history of popular song going back to the 16th century. A degree of irony in the original classics was lost in sceneggiata, a theatre genre which followed them, and is also hard to discern in the many modern spin-offs. Napoli nella Raccolta de Mura (Napoli in the De Mura Collection), piazza Trieste e Trento. Mon-Sat 0900-1900, Sun 0900-1300. Free. Programmes, posters, pictures and memorabilia from the golden age of Neapolitan song. A good jazz scene revolves mostly around the Otto Jazz Club where you may find impromptu music from the groups of local musicians who gather there as well as an excellent advertised programme. Otto Jazz Club, piazzetta Cariati 24, T 081-666262. Thu-Sun. One of Italy’s most respected jazz clubs plays host to live local, national and international jazz. A bar also serves snacks. Murat, via V. Bellini 8, T 081-5445919/3480348822, muratliveclub@tiscali.it Wed-Sun 1900-0200. Hand-painted tables, panini and expertly-mixed cocktails all add to the atmosphere in this jazz-orientated club. Live music usually starts at 2200. Much of Naples’ more interesting contemporary music over the last 10 to 15 years has been born from the left-wing, often illegally occupied centri sociali (social centres), in particular Officina 99, via Gianturco 101, T 081-7349091, http://www.officina99.org, from which rap group 99 Posse were born. Much of their music is associated with marginalized youth and the disaffected and is sung in dialect. 99 Posse are now rich pop stars but still sing and rap in dialect, and remain political.
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Naples - £5.99
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