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Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, via Santa Caterina a Chiaia 20, T 081-407176. Mon 1630-2015, Tue-Sat 1000-1315, 1630-2015. The Neapolitan branch of this 800-year-old business is on piazza dei Martiri, and just opening the door is a truly fragrant experience. From herbal medicines that cure “almost everything” to toothpaste, to Russian Cologne soap for men, to a wide range of perfumes and aftershaves, this shop has it all. Everything is made from natural ingredients and nothing is tested on animals. If you ask they’ll give you a sheet detailing the history of the company from its founding by Dominican Fathers in 1221 to the present day. This too will smell overpoweringly floral.
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