Naples - Positano Travel Guides | Naples | Sub Regions | Naples - Positano

In their days as maritime powers, between the ninth and 12th centuries, Positano was Amalfi's poorer neighbour. Now, however, the situation is very much reversed, and the town is the rich kid of the Amalfi Coast. Its hotels have more stars, its restaurants are more expensive, and its boutiques cater to a more upmarket clientele.

Positano's success in offering itself as an exclusive destination is due in no small part to its extraordinary location: more spectacular than Amalfi, its houses (and hotels) stick to the rounded sides of a steep valley and while the coast road rumbles along higher up the hill, little traffic is allowed down into the town, most of which is connected by paths and steps.

Its lack of conventional 'sights' (the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta is about the nearest it gets) is made up for by a couple of good beaches in Marina Grande and Fornillo, and some vertiginous walks up the mountainsides behind the town. Most people here just wander, however, stopping frequently for breaks in cafés, restaurants and shops. The latter are supposedly famous for their 'fashion', though much of this seems slightly stuck in a time-warp from the days when Positano fashion actually was fashionable, during the 1950s and 1960s. The town claims to have been the first to import the bikini into Italy.

Getting there Buses leave from opposite the station in Sorrento (also stopping at Meta which is quicker coming from Naples) every half an hour or so (€1.19). Ferries go to and from: Capri (1 a day, €10, T 089-811164); Salerno and Amalfi (5 a day, €5/€4, T 089-873190); and in July and August, Naples (3 a day, T 089-811986). Booths down by the ferry pier offer boat trips to the Grotta Smeralda (Emerald Grotto), Isole Li Galli and Nerano as well as night excursions and private boat hire: Lucibello, via del Brigantino 9, T 089-875032, http://www.lucibello.it

Sights

Chiesa Nuova

Buses from Sorrento or Amalfi stop at the western end of the top of the town, by Bar Internazionale. Just behind here up the narrow via Chiesa Nuova, is the church. It’s often closed, however.

The floor of the church dates from the 1600s and is probably from the Neapolitan Chiajese School, which was also responsible for the tiles in the Santa Chiara Cloister in Naples.

Marina Grande and Fornillo

Santa Maria Assunta: Mon-Sun 0700-2000.

Viale Pasitea and a series of steps lead from the bus stop to Santa Maria Assunta and Marina Grande. At the western end of the beach ferries arrive and depart, but it’s more of a beach than a port.

Behind the ferry pier a path leads around the cliff to Fornillo beach, a quieter version of Marina Grande, and good for swimming.

Behind the Marina Grande to the eastern end, the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta has a colourfully tiled dome, though the interior is less impressive. The highlight is a 13th-century Byzantine Madonna and Child on the high altar, more gold leaf than not.

Sentiero Santa Maria del Castello

Allow a good hour for the ascent, 40 minutes or so for the descent.

This path heading up the mountain behind Positano starts from behind the Chiesa Nuova. From via Chiesa Nuova continue past the church up steps which soon reach a road. Cross this and follow the steps up on the other side. This soon becomes a steep path which switchbacks all the way up to Santa Maria del Castello, over 650 m above sea level. In spring there seems to be a different species of flower on every bend, and the views, unsurprisingly, are excellent.

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