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Amici Miei, via Monte di Dio 78, T 081-7646063. Tue-Sat 1230-1530, 1930-0000, Sun 1230-1530, closed Mon. In this yellow-walled and wooden-beamed restaurant, often full of smart families, the emphasis is on meat rather than fish. Some very good homemade pastas include a dish with provola (a kind of smoked mozzarella), sweet chillies and cherry tomatoes. Bersagliera, borgo Marinari 10, T 081-7646016. 1200-1530, 1930-2330, closed Tue and Jan. Possibly the best of borgo Marinaris smart restaurants, Salvador Dali and Sophia Loren have both eaten here by the waterside. La Bersagliera concentrates on seafood and doesnt do anything too adventurous. Brandi, salita SantAnna di Palazzo 1/2, T 081-416928, http://www.brandi.it 1230-1500, 1930-0100. Pizzeria Brandi, just off via Chiaia, is especially proud of its long history (it was founded in 1780) and, above all, its invention of the now ubiquitous pizza Margherita. The first such pizza was made for Queen Margherita on a visit to Naples in 1889. On subsequent visits she would apparently call for the pizza-makers of Brandi who would arrive at the gates of the Palace of Capodimonte with ingredients loaded onto a donkey and cart. Luckily, however, the restaurant does not put all its energy into resting on its laurels, and its pizzas continue to be excellent. It also does a good selection of other traditional Neapolitan food, and the fritto misto is particularly good. Cantinella, via Cuma 42, T 081-7648684. Mon-Sat 1230- 1500, 1930-0100. Considered by some to be Naples best restaurant, the elegant La Cantinella tries to do something a little different to traditional Neapolitan cooking and usually pulls it off. The seafood is undoubtedly the highlight. Marino, via Santa Lucia 118/120, T 081-7640280, http://www.napoli.com/marino Tue-Sun 1230-1530, 1930-0100. Halfway between piazza del Plebiscito and Marina Marinari. This unassuming-looking place is a safe bet and popular with locals. The menu is too comprehensive for anything to be considered a real speciality, athough the seafood fritture are especially good. Uva Nera, via Gennaro Serra 29, T 081-7645485. Tue-Sun 1230-1530, 2000-0000. Up the hill behind piazza del Plebiscito. This friendly little restaurant specializes in rice and its risottos are excellent. Some of its fish dishes are a little bland, however. There is a good, fixed-price lunch (9). Some of the effect of the attractive interior wears off when you realize that many of the tiles around the walls arent real! Osteria della Mattonella, via G Nicotera 13, T 081-416541. Mon-Sat 1300-1500, 1930-2330. Tucked away up the hill from the piazza del Plebiscito. You may need to knock on the door and wait to be let in. This small traditional osteria is a gem, and popular with locals. The upstairs is beautifully decorated with antique tiles (mattonella means tile). The larger space downstairs is less atmospheric but there are plans to tile parts of this too. Fast, friendly and informal service is combined with fairly basic but delicious Neapolitan fare. An antipasto of fried mozzarella and aubergine with bacon, followed by spaghetti and washed down with a large beer will set you back about 10. Da Ettore, via Santa Lucia 56, T 081-7640498. 1300-1530, 1930-0000. Between piazza del Plebiscito and borgo Marinari. Despite the Lowenbrau-branded chairs, the peach tablecloths and the slightly brusque service this is an excellent restaurant with a bubbling atmosphere and delicious food. The feel and the prices are more like those youd expect to find well-hidden up a dark Neapolitan backstreet rather than on this main road. Both pizza and pasta are good, as are the fritture. The parmigiana di melanzane (layered and baked aubergine, mozzarella and tomato) is excellent. Da Peppino, 18 via Solitaria, T 081-7644449. Mon-Sat 0930- 1630, 1930-0100. Tucked up a narrow washing-bedecked street behind piazza del Plebiscito. A plain local restaurant serving excellent local food. Conversation is standardly loud Neapolitan and even if you speak Italian you may feel like an outsider.
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