€ Da Peppino, 18 via Solitaria, T 081-7644449. Mon-Sat 0930- 1630, 1930-0100. Tucked up a narrow washing-bedecked street behind piazza del Plebiscito. A plain local restaurant serving excellent local food. Conversation is standardly loud Neapolitan and even if you speak Italian you may feel like an outsider. € Da Pietro, via Luculliana 27, borgo Marinari, T 081-8071082. Tue-Sun 1200-1500, 1900-2330. This wonderful little place in Borgo Marinari facing the water and Naples’ poshest hotels feels slightly like an impostor. The menu is steadfastly limited, and you will probably be served by a man in a cloth cap while all around you in the neighbouring restaurants bow-ties and waistcoats are the order of the day. The seafood (there’s often little else) is excellent and the house wine isn’t at all bad either. €€€ Ristorante e Pizzeria Bellini, via Costantinapoli 79/80, T 081-459774. Mon-Sun 1200-0100. A well- established and popular restaurant which serves very good seafood, as well as reasonable pizzas, although the service can be slow and unfriendly. The ubiquitous spaghetti alle vongole is excellent here. €€ Anema e Cozze, piazza del Gesù 26/27, T 081-5518427. Mon-Sun 1200-0000. This well-placed restaurant- cum-café (on the edge of piazza del Gesù) does a surprisingly good pizza, as well as a decent fixed-price menu, and is an excellent place to while away a few hours in the sun watching the world go by, though its clientele is more tourist-based than local. €€ un SorRiso Integrale, vico San Pietro a Majella 6, (piazza Bellini) T 081-455026. Mon-Sat 1300-1500, from May-August also Sun. Thu and Sat also 2030-0030 with live music. Set back from main piazza, in a small courtyard off the southeast corner. This organic vegetarian restaurant specializing in “Mediterranean, Oriental and Parthenopean” food is friendly, if self-consciously alternative. A “Mixed Plate”, a satisfying mixture of the four or five dishes of the day, will fill you up for about €7. There are occasional special evenings of ethnic music with food to match. € La Cantina di Via Sapienza, via Sapienza 40/41, T 081-459078. Mon-Sat 1200-1530. This popular lunch-only local restaurant may not look like much from outside, but you descend down into a simple, but pleasingly decorated place, with fresh flowers on the tables and great food on the plates. A delicious bowl of Penne Aum Aum, with aubergine, tomato and mozzarella, is only €2.90. A combination plate of contorni misti (you can specify whether you’d prefer fried, fresh or vegetarian etc) is similarly good value. If you get there much after 1300 you may have to wait for a table. € L'Antica Spaghetteria, via Paladino 7, T 339-7085522. Mon-Sun 1200-1530, Fri and Sat also 1900-0100. Service is very quick in this busy restaurant, which serves a much more varied menu than its name suggests. There is a decent menu turistico, and a good selection of traditional Neapolitan fare. The piped radio can make it a little hectic though. € Antica Osteria Pisano, piazzetta Crocelle ai Mannesi 1-4, T 081-5548325. 1200-1530, 1930-late, closed Sun. Just south of the Duomo. This small osteria is more visitor-friendly than some. It has a menu for a start. The food is still very Neapolitan, however. Good gnocchi or pasta dishes are followed by an excellent selection of secondi piatti and mouth-watering homemade desserts. € Campagnola, via dei Tribunali 47, T 081-459034. Mon-Sun 1200-1600. This trattoria in the centre of the Centro Storico spurns almost all of the usual restaurant niceties: you may have to write your own tab from a chalked menu on the wall; antipasti and first courses may all come at the same time; and (horror of horrors) there are no serviettes. The food is excellent, however, if simple and the atmosphere is informal and fun.
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Naples - £5.99
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