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Campagnola, via dei Tribunali 47, T 081-459034. Mon-Sun 1200-1600. This trattoria in the centre of the Centro Storico spurns almost all of the usual restaurant niceties: you may have to write your own tab from a chalked menu on the wall; antipasti and first courses may all come at the same time; and (horror of horrors) there are no serviettes. The food is excellent, however, if simple and the atmosphere is informal and fun. Da Michele, via Sersale 1, T 081-5539204. 1000-0000, closed Sun. The purists pizzeria supreme, this place has no pretensions at all, as if to say: Look, all our energies are channelled into making the most perfect pizza possible. The menu has only two choices: Margherita or Marinara, and service is lightning quick. Even so, youll probably have to wait to get in, but it will be worth it. Da Michele has a ticket system for waiting. Di Matteo, via dei Tribunali 94, T 081-455262. Mon-Sat 1000-0000. Probably Naples most popular take-away, pizza-by-the-slice joint, you can also sit down here to savour excellent pizzas. Trianon, via Colletta 46, T 081-5539426. Mon-Sun 1100-1500, 1830-2300. On several floors (you may have to fight your way up the stairs through the crowds), this slightly chaotic restaurant is worth the effort to get one of their pizzas, which come in three sizes. You come for the food not the service, though. Lombardi a Santa Chiara, via Benedetto Croce 59, T 081-5520780. Tue-Sun 1200-1600, 2000-0000. Service can be excruciatingly slow and somewhat eccentric at this Neapolitan institution but the pizzas are excellent and just about worth waiting for. Pizzeria dell'Angelo, piazzetta Nilo 16, T 081-5422001. Mon-Sat 1200-1600, 1900-0000. A popular meeting place, this buzzing restaurant has a slightly commercial air to it, but does unfailingly good pizzas. It also serves them by the slice from outside if you dont have the time to sit down. Pizzi Cotto, via Mezzocannone 129, T 081-5516291. Mon-Sun 1200-1600, 1900-2300. This welcoming little place isnt one of Naples better-known pizzerie but its pummarò (fresh tomatoes, rucola and mozzarella) is excellent, and youre likely to get a table without too much trouble. It also does good antipasti. Dante e Beatrice, piazza Dante 44/45, T 081-5499438. Tue-Sun 1200-1500, 0730-2300. The homemade orecchiette (little ears of pasta) are good, as is the bean soup. Generally, though, its fairly standard Neapolitan fare. What makes this place worth a visit is its excellent position on the sparklingly new piazza Dante: the outside tables are a great place from which to watch the world go by. Trattoria Casillo Enzo, vico Rosario a Portamedina 25, T 081-5522248. Mon-Sat 1200-1700. A gem of a restaurant so well-hidden that its name isnt on display, inside or out. In fact from the outside theres not even much evidence of the fact that its a restaurant at all. It certainly doesnt have a menu, and the interior is far from elegant, though the range on offer is surprisingly large. Add to that the excellence and cheapness of the food and the hospitality and youre onto a winner. You can sit and watch the family cook in front of you and if theres something you want that they arent offering, theyll probably do it for you specially.
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