€ Trattoria Casillo Enzo, vico Rosario a Portamedina 25, T 081-5522248. Mon-Sat 1200-1700. A gem of a restaurant so well-hidden that its name isn’t on display, inside or out. In fact from the outside there’s not even much evidence of the fact that it’s a restaurant at all. It certainly doesn’t have a menu, and the interior is far from elegant, though the range on offer is surprisingly large. Add to that the excellence and cheapness of the food and the hospitality and you’re onto a winner. You can sit and watch the family cook in front of you and if there’s something you want that they aren’t offering, they’ll probably do it for you specially. € Trattoria Nennella, vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo 103-105. Mon-Fri 1200-1500. This excellent little trattoria a couple of blocks back from via Toledo is nearly always full at lunchtimes, so either get here early or be prepared to wait for a table. It is traditional to get a generous helping of Neapolitan jokes with your meal. € Trattoria e Pizzeria Fratelli Prigiobbo, via Portacarrese 96. Mon-Sat 1200-2300. This is fast food Neapolitan style: the décor of this slightly cramped trattoria is pretty nasty, and you may not find it very relaxing. The food is superb, however. Pizzas, pasta dishes and fish are all equally delicious, and very cheap. It is usually busy at lunchtimes. €9.50 for pasta, fish and beer. € Lo Spacco, vico Corrieri 37, T 081-5510203. 1200-1500. In a small street off via Santa Brigida. Here you can sit at tables outside and eat delicious pasta dishes starting from €2.10, or fish from €3.10. The atmosphere is very friendly and you may also be able to pick up a very cheap pair of designer shoes from a man selling them on the pavement opposite. € 7 Soldi, vico Tre Re 6, T 081-418727. Tue-Sun 1200-1600, 1900-0100. Queues for take-away pizzas form inside this welcoming place but the range of pastas and seafood is just as good. The risotto is unusually tasty for southern Italy, though the chef may take it into his head to add unexpected delicacies if he feels like it. € Port’Alba, via Port’Alba 18, T 081-459713. 1200-1600, 1800-0100. What may be the world’s oldest pizzeria (several sources say so though the restaurant itself makes admirably little fuss about it) was founded in 1738 and is also a fine restaurant which does an unusually generous fish salad. And you can eat outside under the Port’Alba itself. The pizzas alone are good and cheap enough to explain its extraordinary longevity. €€€ Rosiello, via Santo Strato 10, Posillipo, T 081-7691288. 1230-1600, 1900-0000, closed Wed. At the top of via Marechiaro. It’s a fair trek from Mergellina, but a fairly easy bus ride (140 goes here from the centre). This classy and romantic restaurant has a lilac-covered terrace with a great view over terraces and villas to the sea. The antipasti are particularly recommended: calamaretti (little calamari) or octopus salad are both very good, as is the mozzarella, tomato and rocket salad. They also serve pizzas in the evening. €€ Da Pasqualino, piazza Sannazzaro 77-79, Mergellina, T 081-681524. Wed-Mon 1200-1600, 1900-0000, closed Tue. The enormous popularity of this place becomes clear at weekends and on holidays, when the large seating area outside becomes jam-packed with Neapolitans, another horde circling around waiting for a table. Service can be painfully slow, especially at these times, but the pizzas and the atmosphere are hard to beat. €€ Donna Margherita, vico II Alabardieri 4-6, Chiaia, T 081-400129. Mon-Sun 1230-1500. In a slightly more picturesque setting than most Neapolitan restaurants, complete with palm-fringed garden, Donna Margherita serves a good mix of pasta and fish dishes alongside decent pizzas. There is usually a choice of two set menus (two courses plus mineral water) for €6.20.
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