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Naples’ most famous theatrical export is Commedia dell'Arte, a stylized form of theatre from the 16th century which elevated jugglers, clowns and stock characters such as Harlequin and, in Naples’ case, Pulcinella from entertainers into stars. Pulcinella is one of the city’s symbols: a white cloaked man with a black mask and a long nose, he is seen as the personification of the Neapolitan character. Passionate yet lazy, he overindulges and is, in turn, despondent and exuberant. He breaks the law and beats the local policeman with a stick. His wife, exasperated, does the same to him. If this sounds at all familiar it is probably because he is also the source of Punch, of Punch and Judy fame. His descendants can be seen playing the banjo in piazza del Plebiscito, or as figures for the nativity scene in via San Gregorio Armeno. The roots of Commedia dell'Arte go back probably to the Roman fabula Atellana, comic theatre which also featured masked characters. Since the 16th century its influence has continued, on opera, theatre and films, notably those of Totò. The Neapolitan theatre scene today, however, is slightly limp and conventional in comparison. There are interesting things happening, but they tend to be swamped by the largely mediocre mainstream. One notable exception to this is Roberto de Simone, whose successful productions are an intriguing blend of tradition, dialect and the avant-garde. These can often be seen at the Mercadante. De Simone’s La Gatta Cenerentola ran successfully in London in 1999. Bellini, via Conte di Ruvo, T 081-5499688, http://www.teatrobellini.it The grand and ornate interior of the Bellini often holds large-scale musicals. Mercadante, piazza Municipio 1, T 081-5513396, http://comune.napoli.it/mercada.htm One of the city’s most interesting theatres, often home to Roberto de Simone (see above) as well as actor and director Luca de Filippo (http://www.defilippo.it), another bright star of southern Italian theatre. Sancarluccio, via S Pasquale 49, T 081-405000. Foreign imports and some more experimental work. Sannazaro, via Chiaia 157, T 081-411723, http://www.teatrosannazaro. it A beautiful old theatre often filled with TV actors doing comedy.
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