Brooklyn was once called the city of homes and churches, due to a large influx of immigrants in the 1800s. By the mid-19th century it was the third-largest city in the USA but following the invention of the first passenger elevator in Manhattan in 1857, Brooklyn fell out of favour as developers opted to build tall city apartment buildings. The borough wasn't incorporated into New York City until 1898. Still regarded as independent and self-sufficient, Brooklyn has a cultural scene that rivals Manhattan, plus enough leafy parks and charming townhouses to ensure its inhabitants have little reason to cross over iconic Brooklyn Bridge. Brooklyn Bridge walkway begins at Centre St opposite City Hall. Subway 4, 5, 6 to Brooklyn Bridge-City Hall. The magical structure of the Brooklyn Bridge, with its twin Gothic towers and cathedral-like arches, rises gracefully 83 m above the East River. New Yorkers are fiercely proud of the bridge, which has inspired generations of poets, writers and engineers. The bridge was intended to replace the ferries between Brooklyn and Manhattan Island but it was several years before the plans of chief engineer John Roebling were approved and, even when construction began in 1867, it took almost 15 years to complete in the face of enormous difficulties. Two years into the project, Roebling’s foot was smashed into a pier by a passing ferry. The engineer died of gangrene as a result. Roebling’s son Washington took over the project but suffered, along with several other workers who were operating underwater, from decompression sickness, which left him crippled. His wife, Elizabeth, had to step in to keep the project rolling. In total, 27 people lost their lives building what was the world’s longest suspension bridge at the time. Walking across the bridge between Manhattan and Brooklyn is, for many, the perfect Sunday afternoon activity. A promenade for pedestrians, cyclists and roller-bladers runs from Centre Street’s City Hall to leafy Brooklyn Heights, about a 40-minute jaunt by foot. The views of the Manhattan skyline are breathtaking and, at night, the backdrop of New York twinkles with candy-like appeal against the bridge. From Brooklyn Heights the ‘Promenade’ leads along the waterfront, with jaw-dropping views of Manhattan and the harbour, to leafy, village-like Montague Street, where there are plenty of relaxed cafés and restaurants. Brooklyn Museum of Art 200 Eastern Pkway at Washington Av, Prospect Heights,T1-718 638 5000 Wed-Fri 1000-1700, Sat and Sun 1100-1800 or 1100-2300 on the 1st Sat of the month. $6, $3 students and seniors, free under-12s. Subway 1, 2 to Eastern Pkwy-Brooklyn Museum. The second-largest museum in the country has an excellent, broad-ranging collection of traditional and contemporary art. The beautiful beaux arts building holds over 1.5 million artefacts, covering everything from Native American art and American paintings to Rodin sculptures and ancient Egyptian objects. Brooklyn Botanic Garden 1000 Washington Av, Prospect Heights,T1-718 623 7200. Oct-Mar Tue-Fri 0800-1630, Sat, Sun and holidays 1000-1630; Apr-Sept Tue-Fri 0800-1800, Sat and Sun 1000-1800. $3, $1.50 students and seniors, free under-16s. Admission free on Tue. Subway 1, 2 to Eastern Pkwy-Brooklyn Museum. Right next to the Museum of Art, 52 acres display thousands of pretty plants and an impressive bonsai tree collection. The garden holds an annual cherry blossom festival in April and even has its own star walk, the Celebrity Path, which shows off famous Brooklyn residents. Prospect Park T 1-718 965 8951. Daily 0500-0100. Subway 1, 2 to Grand Army Plaza, Q, S to Prospect Park, F to 15th St-Prospect Park. Brooklyn’s answer to Central Park, this lovely, sprawling spread of 526 acres was designed by Olmsted and Vaux in 1866. A carousel, small zoo, ice rink, and outdoor summer concerts make it a great place to spend an afternoon. Coney Island 1208 Surf Av,T1-718 265 3400, http://www.coneyislandusa.com Most rides and sights open May-Sep. Subway F, Q, W to Coney Island-Stillwell Av. For some good-humoured tackiness and seaside fun, travel out to Coney Island, a slice of Americana and a boisterous younger sibling to the more sedate holiday venues on Long Island. Fun-spirited and seedy, Coney Island revels in its cheeky, blue-collar atmosphere, turns up its nose at 21st-century social mores and parties like the good old days. Situated at the base of Brooklyn, only 12 miles from Manhattan, this has been a holiday destination since the 1920s, when it was the site of a world-famous amusement park. The beach here is enticing as long as you’re not expecting the clean strands of the Hamptons and, from Memorial Day to Labor Day, Coney Island is still abuzz with visitors who come here to enjoy the neon lights, stuffed animal prize booths, video arcades, souvenir shops, bumper cars and roller coasters. The most famous and heart-stopping ride is the Astroland Cyclone, a 75-year old wooden rollercoaster that careers along at up to 60 miles an hour. Separating the fairground rides from the beach is the Boardwalk, where palm readers, peep shows and $1 tat stores ply their trade. Stroll east along it to reach the New York Aquarium and Brighton Beach, home to a large Russian population and known as Little Odessa after the film that was made here. Flashy clothing and plenty of vodka make for a festive, kitschy atmosphere in the busy restaurants on Brighton Beach Avenue. Nathan’s Famous, next to the subway on Surf Avenue, is the official birthplace of the Coney Island dog, now known as the hot dog. Since 1916 it has held a stomach-busting hot-dog eating competition every Fourth of July. For the perfect Coney Island experience, buy your dog from the other branch of Nathan’s on the Boardwalk and enjoy it, complete with sauerkraut and sautéed onions, right on the beach. Williamsburg Brooklyn. Subway L to Bedford Av. Jungle-pop-electro-punk-retrodance is what the flyer says outside the subway in Williamsburg. It pretty much sums up this artistic haven around Bedford Avenue. If you’re not into trendsetters with green knee-socks, punk hairdos, body art and piercings, then Williamsburg may not be your bag but if you want a taste of the most thriving arts and music scene in New York, then this eclectic, edgy, still grungy area is the place for you. No less than 10,000 artists live in Williamsburg, the highest density of anywhere in New York, supplemented by self-conscious young hipsters, who fill the streets around Bedford Avenue and N Sixth Street. One of the city’s most respected art galleries is the Pierogi 2000 at 177 N Ninth Street (T 1-718 599 2144, http://www.pierogi2000.com, open Sep-Jul Mon-Fri 1200-1800 and by appointment), which shows contemporary work by Brooklyn artists. The migration of struggling artists, writers and musicians to Williamsburg for its cheaper rents and loftier spaces gives the whole area a campus-like feel. Restaurants, bookstores, art galleries, cafés and bars have sprung up, making it a fun destination for a night out. However, Williamsburg also maintains its original Latino vibe and working-class spirit and is home to an Orthodox Jewish population, just a few blocks away.
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