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SOMO, 168 rue Montmartre, 75002, T 01 40 13 08 80. Mon-Sun 1200-0130. Happy hour 1800-2000 daily. M Grands Boulevards. Two floors of understated designer chic, with interesting lighting, leather directors' chairs and English staff. Street level for the bar, mezzanine level for the restaurant. The cocktail list (9) is long and satisfying. Pints are possible (5.50), not to be taken for granted in France. Food is pricey and complicated, with main dishes averaging 17. Sir Winston, 5 rue de Presbourg, 75016, T 01 40 67 17 37. Mon-Sun 0900-0400. M Kléber. The leather armchairs, varnished oak and heavy drapes create the atmosphere of a stuffy English gentlemens club with a leatherbound menu featuring cod in mustard and shark steak with passion fruit sauce. A short walk from, and a good alternative to, the fast-food joints of the Champs Elysées. Chez Francis, 122 rue Caulaincourt, 75018, T 01 42 23 58 26. Mon-Sun 0800-0200, M Lamark-Caulaincourt. Bright yellow walls, orange tartan light shades and smiley staff have made this small, contemporary bar a favourite on this side of La Butte. Sit outside on the terrace summer or winter, when braziers keep out the chills. There is a simple menu in the evenings, mostly large salads, and a larger one weekday lunchtimes. La Fourmi, 74 rue des Martyrs, 75018, T 01 42 64 70 35. Mon-Sat 0830-0200, Sun 1000-0200, M Pigalle. A slightly rundown, unpretentious local bar crowded with the youf from Montmartre and Pigalle, as well as post-performance drinkers from nearby concert venues La Cigalle and the Elysée Montmartre. Le Progrès, 7 rue des Trois Frères, 75018, T 01 42 51 33 33. Mon-Sun 0930-0200. M Abbesses. Despite the bar staff, the red neon of Le Progrès remains one of the authentic beacons for residents of Montmartre. It has huge windows, rough-wood walls and tables and a high ceiling. No Problemo, 14 rue Charles Nodier, 75018, T 01 42 54 39 38. Mon-Sat 1100-0200 (summer Sun 1100-0200). M Abbesses. A small, quiet Montmartre bar off the beaten track, with propellers on the walls. A chalkboard menu offers tartines. Au Chat Noir, 76 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011, T 01 01 48 06 98 22. Tue-Fri 1000-0200, Sat-Sun 1100-0200. M Parmentier. Light and spacious bar serving hot drinks, cheap cocktails and strange-looking homemade cakes to a mixed crowd. Several evenings a week there is live music (entry 5-15), anything from oriental jazz to world funk. Café Charbon, 109 rue Oberkampf, 75011, T 01 43 57 55 13. Sun-Thu 0900-0200, Fri-Sat 0900-0400. M Parmentier, St Maur. One of Oberkampfs most established and appreciated bars: leather booths, wrought-iron chandeliers, large mirrors, patterned tiles on the floor. The clientele are mostly young and trendy locals, with the odd French celeb thrown in for good measure. Very crowded, and therefore smoky, at weekends. Café Cheri(e), 44 blvd de la Villette, 75019, T 01 42 02 07 87. Mon-Thu 1700-0200, Fri-Sun 0800-0200 (sometimes until 0600). M Belleville. Once just another Arab hangout among so many others in Belleville, the Cheri(e) has transformed itself into one of the quartiers latest, must-do bars. The red lighting, cheesy posters and reasonable prices make it an ideal drinking spot, and the frequent DJ nights mean its possible to make a long night of it here.
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