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Chartier, 7 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, 75009, T 01 47 70 86 29. Mon-Sun 1130-1500, 1800-2200. M Grands Boulevards. As large as a train concourse and just as noisy and bustling, with barely room to squeeze between the tables. Go early, around 1900, if you dont want to wait, as bookings are not taken. Simple canteen fare, such as egg mayonnaise and steak frites. The Studio Restaurant, 41 rue du Temple, 75004, T 01 42 74 10 38. Mon-Sun 1230-2400 (closed Mon lunchtime). M Hôtel de Ville. A good summer venue, thanks to its large and lively terrace in a charmingly dilapidated Marais courtyard (shared with a theatre and a dance school, hence the stomping from the courtyards upper windows). Food is Californian Tex-Mex; the house speciality is chicken or beef fajitas (for two). Also good are the Arizona BBQ spare ribs. Kim Lien, 33 place Maubert, 75005, T 01 43 54 68 13. Mon-Sat 1100-1500, 2000-2300. M Maubert-Mutualité. Good Vietnamese cuisine in a warm atmosphere. Weather permitting, eat on the inviting terrace, recessed slightly below the fumes from street level. - Le Passage des Carmagnoles, 18 passage de la Bonne Graine, 75011, T 01 47 00 73 30. Mon-Sat 1000-1500, 1900-2400. M Bastille. A delightful, small restaurant in one of the Bastilles many tight passages, or alleyways, that once held the workshops of craftsmen and furniture makers. The menu offers traditional French dishes such as duck in orange sauce and coq au vin amidst the atmospheric beams and bottles. Excellent wine list and choice of cheeses. - Passage Brady, 75010. M Château dEau. This pedestrianized alleyway either side of boulevard de Strasbourg is lined with Indian and Pakistani restaurants. The overall effect is a bit tacky no shortage of neon or waiters outside touting for business but there are plenty of menus to choose from. Parisians rave about it, but France is not known for its fine Indian cuisine. - Aux Vins des Pyrénées, 25 rue Beautreillis, 75004, T 01 42 72 64 94. Mon-Sun 1200-1430, 2000-2330. M St Paul. One of the places to eat out in the Marais, and has been for years. Mosaic floor, red-and-white checked tablecloths, chalkboard menus this popular restaurant has the works. The dishes the likes of beef carpaccio followed by roast chicken with tarragon and cream are slightly more expensive in the evening. 404, 69 rue Gravilliers, 75003, T 01 42 74 57 81. Mon-Fri 1200-1430, 2000-2230, Sat-Sun 1200-1600, 2000-2230. M Arts et Métiers. A chic couscous restaurant owned by the same man as Andy Wahloo, the trendy bar next door. The food is overpriced, but diners pay as much for the surroundings as for the food itself and it always seems to be busy. Chez Marianne, 2 rue des Hospitalières St Gervais, 75004, T 01 42 72 18 86. Mon-Sun 1200-2400. M St Paul. A bustling Jewish restaurant serving fresh falafel, houmous, tzatziki, stuffed vine leaves, fried aubergine, kofta, tabouleh and aubergine caviar. Followed by a bewildering choice of strudels fig, pistachio, poppy seed, apple, prune and so on all washed down with mint tea. Service is slow, but the lively atmosphere makes up for it. Piccolo Teatro, 6 rue des Ecouffes, 75004, T 01 42 72 17 79. Mon-Sun 1200-1500, 1900-2330. M St Paul. A small vegetarian restaurant specialising in adventurous gratins and fruit crumbles (custard an optional extra). The tables are small and tightly packed, so dont expect romantic privacy.
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