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C Hôtel Axial Beaubourg, 11 rue du Temple, 75004, T 01 42 72 72 22, F 01 42 72 03 53, http://www.axialbeaubourg.com M Hôtel de Ville. The kind of hotel guests return to and recommend to their closest friends, which is why it is best to reserve well in advance. The staff are friendly and welcoming and the new look is elegantly contemporary. There’s not a great deal of floorspace around the beds, but the rooms are stylish and unfussy, decorated in wood, tiles and a single rich colour. The views over the street are more interesting than those at the back, and double-glazing means noise isn’t a problem. A breakfast buffet for an extra €10 is served in the former stone-wall cellar, highlighting the welcoming combination of old and new.

C Hôtel Caron de Beaumarchais, 12 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 75004, T 01 42 72 34 12, F 01 42 72 34 63, http://www.carondebeaumarchais.com M Hôtel de Ville. The exquisite little lobby – chandelier, window seats and piano – sets the tone of this elegant family hotel in the Marais. There are 19 identically decorated rooms, of which those on the courtyard side are a little darker and smaller than those overlooking the street. Rooms on the second and fifth floors have small balconies. The hotel is named after the 18th-century playwright who lived at no. 47 further down the same street.

C Hôtel Le Pavillon Bastille, 65 rue de Lyon, 75012, T 01 43 43 65 65, F 01 43 43 96 52, http://www.pavillon-bastille.com M Bastille. Across the road from the Opéra Bastille, this quietly elegant hotel is ideally situated for opera lovers intending to indulge their passion, or anyone wanting to make a night of it in the Bastille. There is a front patio with breakfast tables and the hotel is set slightly back from the street. Rooms are small but pleasant, decked out in sunny yellow and sky blue.

C-D Hôtel du Vieux Marais, 8 rue du Plâtre, 75004, T 01 42 78 47 22, F 01 42 78 34 32, http://www.vieuxmarais.com M Hôtel de Ville. A friendly, family-run hotel for the past 30 years, the Vieux Marais completely revamped its look in 2002/2003, elevating it from a two- to a three-star establishment. All 30 rooms are now equipped with air conditioning, Poltrona Frau furniture and sturdy, well-made wooden beds and closets. Gleaming white bathrooms are brought to life with terracotta tile freizes and flashes of chrome. The final work , due to be completed by summer 2003, is the facelift of the reception and garden.

C-D Hôtel Ducs d’Anjou, 1 rue Ste-Opportune, 75001, T 01 42 36 92 24, F 01 42 36 16 63, http://www.hotelducsdanjou.fr M Châtelet les Halles. A comfortable 37-room hotel with a lobby sparsely decorated with mirrors, chandeliers and lavender- coloured chairs. The most recent renovations were completed at the end of 2002. Rates vary quite considerably depending on how full the hotel is, so it is worth enquiring about their best rates. There are three suites, of which two can sleep four, thanks to the second double bed hiding in the wardrobe. The smallest suite, the Suite des Bleuets, is the nicest however. It is decorated in lush blues and has a small balcony overlooking the pedestrianized shopping street below.

D Hôtel de la Bretonnerie, 22 rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004, T 01 48 87 77 63, F 01 42 77 26 78, http://www.bretonnerie.com M Hôtel de Ville, St Paul. The colour and warmth of the lobby continues throughout, and it comes as no surprise that the hotel was a private mansion in the 17th century. The 25 rooms are individually decorated, all with period furniture, soft lighting and luxurious fabric wallpapers, and often with exposed beams, four-poster beds and botanical paintings. There are three categories of room, each good value for money for the area: Chambres classiques, Chambres de charme and Junior suites, which can sleep three to four. Flowers, rough-stone walls and deep-red chairs make the cellar breakfast room inviting.

D Hôtel Saint-Louis Marais, 1 rue Charles V, 75004, T 01 48 87 87 04, F 01 48 87 33 26, http://www.saintlouismarais.com M Sully-Morland. Hidden on the corner of a quiet backstreet between the Marais and the Île St Louis, this little hotel looks rather sorry on the outside but is cheerier inside. About half of the 17 rooms have recently been renovated: the old floor carpets have been replaced with clean tiles and the bathrooms spruced up.

E Hôtel les Sans-Culottes, 27 rue de Lappe, 75011, T 01 49 23 85 80, F 01 48 05 08 56 M Bastille. This reliable, inexpensive hotel is named after France’s most famous revolutionaries. There are just nine rooms, so booking ahead is a must. A plus for guests is the atmospheric bar-restaurant downstairs, which in summer spills onto the pavement. Light sleepers beware, however, as the noise level of the rue de Lappe is considerable – this is the Bastille’s cheap ‘n’ cheerful late-night partying street, particularly in summer.

E Hôtel Sully, 48 rue St-Antoine, 75004, T 01 42 78 49 32, F 01 44 61 76 50 M St Paul, Bastille. A budget option in an excellent location for those who want to be near the action of the Marais and the Bastille. It’s reasonably priced at under €60 for a rickety en-suite double room, and an extra €10 per person for rooms of three or four people.

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