The Icelandic music scene, like much else in the country, is dominated by Reykjavík and is like nothing you’ve ever heard before. The one artist you will have heard of is Björk, and if she’s a paradigm for what’s to come, you can see why it’s all so unique. She’s highly regarded, drowning in awards and adulation, and often seen around the city even though she doesn’t really live here any more. Rock and pop, if that’s how you can classify her music, is by far the most popular form of music in the city. Don’t be surprised if every second person under 30 you meet is in a band. This must be how Gaukurinn can keep putting on live music every night. The biggest new thing in recent years has been the ambient, trippy and spiritual music of Sigur Rós, a band who defy convention and description. They’ve had recent success putting old Icelandic tales to music and lead singer Jónsi plays his guitar with a violin bow and croons out his lyrics in a language he calls hopelandish, a fusion of Icelandic and English. It’s hard to describe them as they’re so unusual, but suffice it to say that the drummer of Metallica was moved to write a letter of thanks to them after hearing them. Their first album, Ágætis Byrjun, won numerous accolades worldwide, though their second, the obscurely-titled, received mixed reviews. The strangeness of some of the other ambient music on offer provides a perfect accompaniment to the weird lava formations and scenes you’ll see just outside the city, with notable artists including Gús Gús, Trabant and Múm. There isn’t so much in the way of rap or ethnic music, presumably because there are neither any ghettos, or much ethnic diversity. There’s only one big outdoor stadium for touring bands, the football ground at Laugardalur. Tickets for events here can be bought at either of the record shops on Laugavegur. NASA in Austurvöllur Square is also big enough to host the odd band or two. Both of these venues as well as the smaller cafes and certainly Gaukurinn will be filled during October’s Icelandic Airwaves music festival, drawing the cream of Icelandic bands as well as a few foreign imports. In the summer the town squares are alive with free pop and rock gigs and it’s worth keeping an eye out too for the art galleries as many have hosted the likes of Sigur Rós and Múm in their echoey, slightly pretentious spaces. Classical music and jazz is somewhat overshadowed by this, but you can still find it, often at small quirky venues like the Nordic House for occasional intimate recitals and Hallgrímskirkja for organ recitals. As you go out into the smaller villages and the countryside you could stumble upon anything from a singalong around an old piano to an accordion group. Gaukur á Stöng, Tryggvagata 22. This three-floored building is the number one venue for Icelandic rock, pop and DJ sets with some form of music every night of the week. You can usually see a couple of bands for ISK 500, cheaper than the price of a cinema ticket. Viðalin, Aðalstræti. Live music venue that occasionally hosts cutting-edge Icelandic bands and has some form of music nearly every night of the week in summer. Grand Rokk , Smiðjustígur 6. This is the best place if you want something heavy metal and gothic, with the occasional bit of rock’n’roll thrown in too. It’s possible to find classical music in other venues to the ones stated here, for example art galleries and the Nordic House , so keep your eyes open. Organ recitals are held in Hallgrímskirkja on Sunday lunchtimes and evenings during the summer, contact the tourist office for more details. The Icelandic Symphony Orchestra, Háskólabíó, Hagatorg, T 545 2500. Prestigious orchestra playing great classical works. Tickets range from ISK 1100 to ISK 3500.
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Reykjavic - £7.99
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