Seville - Cordoba Travel Guides | Seville | Sub Regions | Seville - Cordoba

The zenith of Córdoba’s influence came in the 10th and 11th centuries when it was the western capital of the Islamic empire, rivalling Baghdad in culture, sophistication and power. Now a large, but insignificant provincial capital, Córdoba preserves plenty of Moorish atmosphere, nowhere more so than in the Mezquita, probably the most stunning mosque ever built by the Moors and still an extraordinary place, despite the fact that a Christian cathedral has been built in the middle of it.

10-13 buses daily (roughly hourly on the hour) from Prado de San Sebastián station with Alsina, E 8.30 single/E 11.80 return; 1hr 45 mins. Six normal trains daily, E 6.95, 1hr 20 mins; AVE trains hourly, E 19, 41 mins. From the train or bus stations, grab a cab or local bus into the old centre, as it’s a fair walk from either.

Sights

Mon-Sat 1000-1930 (1800 in winter), Sun and festivals 1400-1900 (1800 in winter). Last admission 30 mins before closing. E 6.50; under 10s free; 10-14, half price. Enter from C Magistral González Francés.

Wandering around Córdoba, it’s difficult to quite grasp just how large and influential a city this was in Moorish times. Until you enter the Mezquita, that is. The sheer scale of the place, with its never-ending forest of red and white striped arches hits the visitor with some force upon entering from the Patio de los Naranjos, the orange-tree courtyard once used for ritual ablutions. It was begun in AD 785 but built in four distinct phases under different rulers; the last and largest expansion was by the fearsome military tactician Al-Manzur, who brought it to its current size of 23 000 square metres, the size of four football pitches.

It’s difficult (and frustrating) to get an idea of what the mosque must once have been like in all its glory, because the conquering Christians decided to park a cathedral in the middle of it. The most drastic alterations took place in 1523 under Carlos V who sanctioned the building, despite local objections, of a chapel and choir in Renaissance style. On inspecting the finished work he did have the decency to comment: “You have built what you or others might have built anywhere, but you have destroyed something that was unique in the world”. Don’t let that put you off the cathedral, though, which is a fine construction. Among items of particular interest are the mahogany choir stalls, looking like a fantasy of dark chocolate. In the Tesoro (Treasury) is a monstrance by Enrique de Arfe, more than 2½ m high, weighing 200 kg and is a mass of jewels, crosses and relics.

Get away from some of the tourists by wandering through the old streets to the east of the Mezquita. Head for the Plaza de la Corredera, a remarkable colonnaded square with several terraced cafés. It was enclosed in the 17th century and formed a multi- purpose arena, which has been used for bullfights and even burnings during the Inquisition.

Córdoba’s judería, between the Mezquita and the city walls to the west, is a warren of narrow lanes and alleyways sadly overdosed with souvenir shops. However, you can still find some delightful corners, such as the flower-filled Callejón de las Flores. This street sets the scene for the rest of Córdoba, which takes a great pride in its patios, an architectural remnant from Roman and Moorish times and beautifully decorated, from the humblest home to the grandest palace. The best approach to the judería is via the 14th-century Puerta de Almodóvar. From here turn right into Calle Judías, which leads to the Synagogue, one of only three in Spain. Built in 1315, this tiny building has some fine Mudéjar plasterwork of Hebrew texts and retains its women’s gallery.

Tue-Sat 1000-1400, 1630-1830, Sun 0930-1430. E 2, Fri free. Gardens open all day Tue-Sun.

The Alcázar by the river was built by Alfonso X and later enlarged by the Roman Catholic Monarchs. Fernando and Isabel received Columbus in this building before he departed on his first voyage to the New World, while it was also the prison of Boabdil, the last of the kings of Moorish Granada. The Alcázar became a centre for the Inquisition from 1490 until 1821. Even as late as the mid-20th century, the building was functioning as a prison, so it is perhaps not surprising that there is little to see from its golden age. Most enjoyable is wandering around the gardens to the south of the building, with its pools, fountains and rose beds, which are illuminated during the summer evenings.

Travel Guides | Seville | Sub Regions | Seville - Cordoba
		Flights Cheap flights to any destination worldwide click here		Car Rental Compare prices for worldwide car rental click here		Hotels Lowest prices on over 60,000 hotels worldwide click here		Travel Insurance Compare Travel Insurance prices click here