Seville - Isla de la Cartuja Travel Guides | Seville | Sub Regions | Seville - Isla de la Cartuja

The clay-rich Isla de la Cartuja was a centre for potters’ workshops in bygone centuries but was more or less derelict until the city decided to make it the site of the World Expo in 1992. Predictably for such an event, costs went through the roof and the city was left with massive debts and a huge space filled with modern buildings. While the university use some of them, there’s a popular theme park and a few bars and auditoriums, much of the site is decaying amid administrative wrangling and failed development proposals. Still, it’s interesting to wander around; pick a weekday, as most of the site is depressingly empty at weekends. At the southern end is the massive ocean-liner profile of the headquarters of the Andalucían Junta. The monastery where Columbus once came for contemplation is now a good contemporary arts centre and there’s an excellent park at the northern end of the island.

Sights

Av Américo Vespucio 2, T 955 037 070, http://www.juntadeandalucia.es/ cultura Oct-Mar, Tue-Fri 1000-2000, Sat 1100-2100, Sun 1000-1500; Apr-Jun and Sep, Tue-Fri 1000-2100, Sat 1100-2000, Sun 1100-1500; Jul-Aug, Mon-Fri 1000-2300, Sat 1100-1500. E 3.01; audio-guide available. Bus 1/C2.

Ceramics have been made here since ancient times; it was in a pottery in the 13th century that the Virgin appeared and a shrine was built. It was later developed into this important monastery, a favourite of Seville’s wealthy and powerful in the Golden Age. Columbus came here to pray and contemplate his next voyages; when he died his remains lay here for 23 years. In the Peninsular War, the arch-desecrator of Spanish cultural heritage, Maréchal Soult, stationed troops here, who badly damaged the buildings; once the monks were expelled some 20 years later, it was in a poor state and was picked up cheaply by Charles Pickman, a British businessman, who set up a ceramics factory and lived there. Pickman generally respected the monastic buildings, though all were put to use, and the huge brick kilns and chimneys still dominate the site.

Renovated by the Seville authorities, it became the Royal Pavilion of Expo 92 and is now partly given over to a good contemporary art museum. First, visit the church itself with a small cloister, a refectory with a beautiful coffered ceiling and the well-carved tombs of the powerful Ribera family. The permanent collection (not all of which is always on display) has some excellent pieces, mostly by Andalucían artists. Look out for Guillermo Pérez Villalta’s series on the four elements, which speaks powerfully about the fate of the Moors and their cultural contribution to Andalucía.

C Marie Curie s/n, T 954 467 146, http://www.pabellondelaenergiaviva.com Mon-Sat 1000-1900, Sun 1100-1900. E 5.60. Bus C1, C2.

One of the prettiest of the Expo pavilions, the Hungarian structure has recently been transformed into this interactive environmental museum. Shaped like an upturned boat, the towers represent the world’s eight principal religions.

Daily 0800-2200, 0800-2400 summer. Bus E5 from Puente de la Barqueta.

Seville’s biggest park is a good spot to head to for a picnic, a bit of exercise, or some relaxed summer strolling or sunbathing. It’s a popular destination with sevillanos at weekends. There’s a lake, and in summer there are terraced chiringuitos to have a drink, and a cycle hire place. Beyond here is the Estadio Olímpico, built in the vain hope of hosting the 2008 Olympics.

Two of the bridges that link La Cartuja with central Seville are works of the inspirational Valencian architect Santiago Calatrava. Designed for the Expo, they quickly became popular icons of the city. The closest to town is the Puente de la Barqueta, an elegant arch offset by perpendicular cables. From here you get a superb view of the next one, the sublime Puente del Alamillo. Drawing themes from birds in flight as well as Viking longships, the bridge features a single angled upright at one end, linked to the other end by streaming cables; it’s an impressive sight indeed.

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