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If Seville is a city full of Spanish clichés, Jerez de la Frontera claims quite a few of its own. The home of fancy horses and sherry and a city with a very strong flamenco tradition, it’s worth a visit if only for its markedly different atmosphere to Seville. Strong ties between Jerez and Britain have been established since mediaeval times and the love of the island nation for the fortified wines of this region continues strong. Many of the winemakers and wine merchants involved in the trade have British roots and certain things have rubbed off on the locals over the years. Among the wealthier citizens here you’ll spot plenty of tweeds and spaniels and there’s a certain dignified air very different to that found in other Andalucían cities. That said, there’s plenty of Andalucían movida here too.
Nine buses a day (6 at weekends) from Prado San Sebastián bus station between 1230 and 2230, 1 hr, E 5.62; 12 trains daily, E 5.75, 1hr
Sights
The town
Recently renovated, Jerez’s old centre is an attractive network of palmy plazas and sherry ‘n’ tapas bars. The main tourist office is on Plaza Arenal, and they’ll give you plenty of information on the sights of the city (alternatively, pick up a sheet on Jerez from the tourist kiosk at Seville’s Santa Justa station).
If you want to visit a bodega, there are several choices. Many go for González Byass, home of Tío Pepe, whose pricey tour is a slick affair that won’t teach you a lot about sherry making but will let you taste plenty. Sandeman is a smaller bodega that is recommendable.
It’s worth getting to Jerez early so you can head to the Real Escuela Andaluza de Arte Ecuestre before lunch and see the highly trained Andalucían horses in side-stepping action, Tue and Thu from Mar-Oct for the elaborate midday show, E 16, and on weekdays when there’s no show you can turn up and watch the riders and horses train from 1100-1300, E 6.
The Alcázar was the heart of the Moorish town and you can visit the restored Arab baths and mosque. There’s also a Renaissance palace here, in which is located a Camera Obscura, always a fascinating experience. Opposite is the 18th-century cathedral, with a fine Zurbarán Madonna and Child, which is the highlight. Other churches worth a visit are San Miguel, for its elaborately carved portal, and San Marcos, for a fine retablo.
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