Arena, C Adriano 10, T 954 219 364. 1200-0100 (0400 at weekends). A cool bar, the tapas here are “artesanas” and there’s certainly a variety on offer. The salmorejo is excellent, there are good vegetarian options and some tasty cakes, all eagerly consumed by a trendy, youngish set. Bar Pepe Hillo, C Adriano 24, T 954 215 390. 1200-0100. A legend in its own tapas time, especially for stews such as the caldereta de venao venison dish and some very tasty croquetas among other goodies. High-ceilinged, busy and buzzy, it’s decorated with farming implements and has a small, popular terrace. Bodegas Díaz-Salazar, C García de Vinuesa 18, T 954 213 181. 1130-1600, 1900-0030. Closed Sun evening. It doesn’t get much more authentic. This spacious century-old bodega has faded posters, an ageing clientele, and top sherries drawn from the barrel. The bar staff dress in old green sweaters and keep the chalk for reckonings behind their ears. The montaditos and limited tapas are simple and good. Casa Morales, C García de Vinuesa 11, T 954 221 242. Mon-Sat 1200-1600, 2000-0130. This great old place is in an old sherry bodega. The service is old-style, with chalk on the bar and friendly chat. The tapas and montaditos are served on a wee wooden tray; the guiso del día (stew of the day) is often a tempting option. Blanca Paloma, C Pagés del Corro 86, T 954 333 788. 0800-1600, 2000-2400. A cheerful, yellow Triana local with some original and unusual tapas for E 1.80 a hit such as aubergine stuffed with prawns. Further down C San Jacinto, cross the road to Bar Oliva, at number 73, and have a piece of swordfish (pez espada). Bodega Siglo XVIII, C Pelay y Correa 32. 1200-2400. Closed Mon. A low, quiet bar run by a flamenco artist and decorated in bullfight pictures. The tapas are excellent, modern takes on traditional fare; there’s also a big range of morcillas from around the nation. Calle Larga, C Pureza 72. Tue-Sun 1200-2300. Some of the tapas are quite unusual, like albóndigas de choco (cuttlefish meatballs), but you’re better off going for an old favourite like riñones al jerez. The walls are covered with bullfight photos and the Rocío pilgrimage. Staff are old Triana characters. Casa Diego, Av Santa Cecilia 29, T 954 330 609. 0700-0030. One of a few places on this popular tapas street that specializes in caracoles and cabrillas (snails). It’s what they do well and you can eat them at the bar or out on the terrace; there are few other frills! El Faro de Triana, Puente Isabel II s/n, T 954 336 192. 1200-0100. This curious yellow building on the Triana end of the bridge has everything a weary traveller could ask for; wonderful river views, cheap and huge tapas portions and massive glasses of beer or wine. The gambas are particularly good, as are the habas con jamón. The terrace upstairs is one of the top spots in the city; you’ll usually have to queue for a table. Recommended.
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Seville - £7.99
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