El Faro de Triana, Puente Isabel II s/n, T 954 336 192. 1200-0100. This curious yellow building on the Triana end of the bridge has everything a weary traveller could ask for; wonderful river views, cheap and huge tapas portions and massive glasses of beer or wine. The gambas are particularly good, as are the habas con jamón. The terrace upstairs is one of the top spots in the city; you’ll usually have to queue for a table. Recommended. Jabbazaír Abacería, Ronda de Triana 39, T 954 334 414. 1200-2400. A beautifully decorated deli-bar with tables perched on terracotta pots filled with chickpeas. It’s quiet and friendly, frequently with Middle-Eastern music playing. The food is superb; the best of hams, artichokes, asparagus; try the cogollos con anchoa. Bar Europa, C Siete Revueltas 35, T 954 221 354. 0800-2400. A very good tapas bar that’s been in business since 1925. It’s a long, traditional-looking place with some fairly original food, such as moussaka and partridge paté. The tortilla here is also good. Bodega Extremeña, C San Esteban 17, T 954 417 060. 1200-2400. A top tapas bar with cheery staff. Extremeña means “from Extremadura” and the food and wine are from that region. There are several cheese and cold meat options, as well as some excellent chargrilled pieces of steak and traditional dishes. Try the migas, a traditional peasant dish of breadcrumbs, suet, garlic, and ham all mixed together – it tastes a lot better than it might sound. Bodegón Don Julián, C San Eloy 47, T 954 221 625. 0800-1600, 2000-2300. Variable rest day between Mon-Wed. A big popular place for tapas or a more substantial meal, with hanging hams and a tiled façade. The food is excellent; the solomillo al whisky is superb, the lamb is nice, and there’s a daily guiso which is good value. The adventurous could try carillada, pig’s cheeks; on a less agressively carnivorous note, there are good breakfasts served with wholemeal breads. Bodegón El Cangrejo, C San Felipe 13. Tue-Sun 1200-2400. This little street buzzes at weekends as crowds mingle from adjacent bars – it’s dubbed “el callejón de los locos” (nutters’ lane) but it’s not that rowdy. This simple bar is great with friendly staff and delicious meaty tapas and montaditos; the pinchito de lomo kebab is a great snack. El Rinconcillo, C Gerona 40, T 954 223 183. 1300-0100. An incredibly old bar that was founded in 1670 when the large-jawed Habsburgs still ruled Spain. It’s an attractive place that’s definitely worth a visit. The tapas are good and served till fairly late; the croquetas are particularly memorable. Entre Cárceles, C Faisanes 1, T 679 374 413. Mon-Fri 2030-0100, Sat 1230-1730, 2030-0200, Sun 1230-1730. This tiny bar is prettily tiled and has old wooden beams and shelves, the latter at alarming angles after years of supporting the favourite tipples of a smartish Sevillian set. The tapas and raciones are pricey but delicious; try the gambas or spicy huevos a la flamenca. Some of the finest of sherries are available by the glass, but pride of place goes to a very old and valuable photo of the Virgen de la Macarena. La Antigua Bodeguita, Plaza del Salvador 6, T 954 561 833. As long as the weather holds, the interior of this popular bar is really just a place to order, as the crowd from here and the bar next door spills out onto the square. It’s a great Sevillian scene in its own right, but the tapas are also worthy. Check out mojama, cured tuna meat that will either delight or disgust.
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Seville - £7.99
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