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On a lightning visit, there’s little point in straying beyond the Old Town’s maze of medieval streets. Rise early and head for Toompea before the crowds: the streets are eerily quiet, and you will have the viewing platforms to yourself, which makes the whole experience inestimably more romantic. Head down from the Danish King’s Garden to Niguliste church, have breakfast with bohemians and powerbrokers at Pegasus café, then pass the tourist office on Kullassepa before starting your Lower Town exploration at its heart, Raekoja plats. Tarry a while to take in the town hall, then head for the handsome Hansa houses on Lai, the street of theatres and home to the excellent Applied Arts Museum. As you approach the daunting spire of Oleviste church, cut left to Laboratooriumi for an up-close view of the city walls, with a line of intact towers, then make for Fat Margaret tower and the Maritime Museum. Pikk Tänav (Long street) takes you back into town, past pretty Pühavaimu church, in time for lunch at one of the eateries on Vene, the “street of food”. Continue down Vene for the City Museum and the Dominican Monastery, then cut through cute Katariina käik to Müürivahe, another stretch of rugged fortifications. Admire the Viru Gates before wandering north along Uus, a characterful street with a superb baroque embassy building. Step in time to the martial music blasting out of the Mine Museum and head back towards the heart of town for dinner.
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