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Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2, T 667 31 00, http://www.kaubamaja.ee. Mon-Sat 0900-2100, Sun 1000-1900. Decent range of smart and casual clothes, with clubbing gear on the top floor, a good toy department and a good food hall. Stockmann, Liivalaia 53, T 633 9500, http://www.stockmann.ee. Mon-Fri 0900-2100, Sat and Sun 0900-2000. This Finnish department store set new standards for choice and product quality when it opened. Good for western fashion, food and drink.
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