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Tallinn is packed with eateries serving everything from hearty German-influenced Estonian dishes to fine French cuisine with a local twist. The restaurant scene has developed pretty much from scratch in the past 15 years and establishments come and go at breakneck speed, with many would-be superchefs discovering that they have bitten off more than they can chew. Dining in Tallinn is usually cheap and, at its best, it offers unbelievable value for money, although only a handful of restaurants would stand out in New York or London. There’s an emphasis on stylish, often spectacular, interior design and presentation, with most new establishments creating a fantastic first impression, although some could do with canning the background music. Service is usually efficient and portions are on the generous side – one course is often enough. Many of the best restaurants are in hotels and some are relatively expensive for locals, so you may find yourself dining only with foreigners or in a spookily empty room.
Upmarket dining is sometimes intimidatingly formal, with service so attentive it can be claustrophobic. For something a little earthier, try such quintessentially Estonian dishes as pork with sauerkraut and roast potatoes, Baltic herring, broth with dumplings and meatballs, beetroot salad, jellied veal, cottage cheese or blood pudding. The national cuisine has peasant origins and local chefs are prone to occasional lapses into rusticity, such as the tendency to smother salads in soured cream. Eating hours are flexible, with many locals lunching as late as 1500. Dinner is usually served until 2200.
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