BooksDuring the Soviet era, Estonia had one of the most liberal literary climates in the Soviet Union. Solzhenitsyn wrote much of The Gulag Archipelago in hiding in southern Estonia (it was eventually published in Paris), while Bulgakov’s magnum opus, The Master and Margherita, was first published in Tallinn (1969). Estonian literature’s gradual release from having to be political (resisting totalitarianism via innuendo and allegory) began in the 1980s. The dreary pointlessness of daily life during the period of stagnation (1968-87) was the inspiration for Peeter Sauter’s book Indigo (1990). In the early 1990s, authors focused on Soviet crimes, such as deportation and life in camps and prisons, before moving on to the physically intimate side of romantic relations, something untouched in occupation-era literature. Former deportee Jaan Kross, who, along with poet Jaan Kaplinski, has been put forward for the Nobel Prize, is the most internationally acclaimed contemporary Estonian author. Reorientation to the west and the freedom to travel has led to new literary influences and more experimental works; Jüri Ehlvest and Toomas Raudam, for example, explore the aesthetics and structure of the novel. There is also a tradition for magic realism and absurdist writing: the world looks strange, even grotesque, through the eyes of writers such as Arvo Valton and Mehis Heinsaar. Several Russian-language writers also work in Tallinn. Poetry has always been hugely important in Estonia. In the 1970s and 1980s, Hando Runnel gave voice to national resistance; contemporary poets of note include Doris Kareva and Jaan Kaplinski, the only Estonian poet whose collections are readily available in English. His free-form work, which shows the influence of both western modernism and classic Chinese poetry, combines closely observed nature with spiritual and political reflection. Sadly, although many Estonian works have been translated into Swedish, German and French, there is a sorry shortage of books in English translation. Perhaps the only two names known in the English-speaking world are Kross and the poet Jaan Kaplinski. Viivi Luik’s acclaimed The Beauty of History (1991), about the events of 1968, has still to find a publisher despite having been translated into English. To see what you’re missing, get hold of the English-language Estonian Literary Magazine, which publishes extracts from contemporary works; for a free subscription, contact the Estonian Institute, T 631 4355, http://www.einst.ee. Information in English about Estonian writing is also available at the Estonian Literature Information Centre, T 631 4870, http://www.estlit.ee. AnthologiesEstonian Short Stories: Writings from an Unbound Europe, ed Pruul, K and Reddaway, D (1996) Northwestern University Press, Illinois. Includes stories by Kross, Valton, Unt, Raudam and Ehlvest. From Baltic Shores (1994), ed Christopher Moseley, Norvik Press, Surrey, England. Short stories by Mati Unt, Arvo Valton and others. Les Hirondelles: anthologie des nouvelles estoniennes contemporaines (2002), Presses Universitaires de Caen. In French. Short stories by 19 Estonian writers, including Andrus Kivirähk, Mehis Heinsaar and Mati Unt. The Sailors’ Guardian (1984), Perioodika, Tallinn. Short stories from the Soviet era. Biography and traveloguesHillier, P, Arvo Pärt (1997), Oxford University Press. Definitive biography of Estonia’s most famous contemporary composer, written by a pioneering conductor who has worked closely with him. Ross, A, The Winter Sea (1997), Harvill. Memoir-cum-travelogue by the late editor of the London Magazine, with poetry and chapters on Tallinn and Haapsalu. Contemporary fiction translated into EnglishDolvlatov, S, Compromise (1983), Knopf. Savagely comic account of a talented journalist ground down by the censors in 1970s Tallinn. The Bashkiria-born author’s association with Estonian dissidents forced him to emigrate to the US. Kross, J, The Czar’s Madman (1992), Harvill. Superb critique of Soviet rule via the story of a Baltic German aristocrat who dares to criticize the Tzar. A modern classic. The Conspiracy and Other Stories (1995), Harvill. Painful, wryly humorous tales about the tragic experience of Estonians under Soviet and Nazi occupation. Professor Martin’s Departure (1994), HarperCollins. The injustices of late 19th-century Russia. Treading Air (2003), Harvill. The narrative unfolds in stories related by 70-year-old Ullo Paerand who relates the violence and political upheaval of the Soviet and Nazi occupations. How a wall of silence came to be built between western and eastern Europe. Õnnepalu, T, Border State (2000), Northwestern University Press, Illinois. A young gay Estonian translator’s adventurers in Paris. Elegantly written and with pithy observations on the difference between consumer-oriented westerners and prickly easterners. Palmer, W, The Good Republic (1990), Secker & Warburg. Set in an imaginary Baltic capital, this is a painfully convincing account of the horrors of Soviet and Nazi occupation and the compromises that accompanied them. Unt, M, The Autumn Ball (1985), Perioodika, Tallinn. First Estonian postmodernist novel about the musings of six very different characters living in the tower block residential area of Mustamäe. A fragmentary work that skilfully captures the atmosphere of a Soviet-built estate. HistoryCaptain Agar, A, Baltic Episode (1963), Hodder and Stoughton. A British secret agent’s dramatic account of how the Royal Navy helped secure Estonia’s independence in the face of threats from Russia and Germany in 1919. Lieven, A, The Baltic Revolution (1993), Yale University Press. Classic (and weighty) tome about the return to independence by The Times’s man in the Baltics. Seth, R, Baltic Corner: Travels in Estonia (1938), Methuen. Priceless observations from an English gentleman. Thomson, C, The Singing Revolution (1991), Michael Joseph. Personal, eye-witness account of the restoration of independence in the Baltic States. LanguageAhi, H, and Pesti, M, E nagu Eesti (E like Estonia), Estonian for Beginners, TEA Publishers, Tallinn. Local publication with a cassette and a separate book for teachers. Moseley, C, Colloquial Estonian: A Complete Language Course (1994), Routledge. Clear, practical book suitable for self-study or classwork. Oinas, FJ, Basic Course in Estonian (1975), Bloomington: Indiana University Press. User-friendly classic, packed with exercises. Oser, W, and Salasoo, T, Estonian for Beginners (1987), Council of Estonian Societies in Australia. For class or individual study. Cassettes available. PoetryKaplinski, J, The Same Sea in us All (1990), Harvill; The Wandering Border (1992), Harvill; Through the Forest (1996), Harvill; Windship with Oars of Light (2001), Huma, Tallinn. LanguageEstonian, once voted one of the most beautiful languages in the world (although nobody quite seems to remember when), belongs to the Baltic-Finnic group of the Finno-Ugrian family of languages, which includes Finnish, Hungarian and Lapp. It is spoken by about one million people in Estonia and 100,000 valisestlased, or Estonians living abroad, mainly in Sweden, North America, Australia and Germany, but also in the UK. Estonians won’t be at all surprised or upset if you can’t speak their language, but every effort will be greeted with enthusiasm (well, as much enthusiasm as your average reserved Estonian can muster at a first meeting). About 40% of Tallinn’s population is said to be Russian-speaking, though, increasingly, younger Russians speak Estonian as well as English, which is by far the most popular foreign language. One prevailing myth is that Estonians will bite your head off for speaking Russian: ask politely if you can, and most of those who know Russian will do so if it means being able to communicate. Russian, as well as Estonian, is spoken at Tallinn’s train and bus stations. The letters C, F, X, Y and Z do not exist in Estonian. If you’re looking something up in a telephone directory, be warned that words beginning with the following accented letters come after W (the last non-accented word in the Estonian alphabet), in this order: õ, ä, ö, ü. The letter “õ”, a sound that comes from a nether region deep in the throat, is near impossible for English speakers to emulate. Think of ir in the word “bird” and you’re almost there. The first syllable in a word is almost always accented (exceptions include foreign and loan words), which gives the language its distinctive bouncy, rhythmical sound. Pronunciation Estonian is pronounced pretty much as it looks, although “j” is usually “y” (eg “Jah”, or yes, is pronounced “yah”). Accented vowels can be tricky: õ like “ir” in “bird”; ä like “a” in “cat”; ö like “er” in “ermine” Basic words and phrases Hello Tere Good morning Tere hommikust Goodnight Head ööd (Hey-add erd) Goodbye Head aega (literally, good time) or nägemist (see you) Yes Ja (yah) No Ei (like saying the letter “a”) Thank you Tänan, or the less formal and widely used aitäh (I-tah) Please Palun Excuse me/sorry Vabandust Do you speak English? Kas teie räägite inglise keelt? Does anyone here speak English? Kas keegi räägib inglise keelt? I don’t know Ma ei tea Where is … ? Kus on … ? Can you help me? Palun kas te saate mind aidata? How much does… cost? Kui palju... maksab? When does … open/close? Mis kell … avatakse/suletakse? I would like … Ma tahaksin … One ticket, please Uks pilet, palun Two tickets, please Kaks piletit, palun Emergencies Help! Aidake! Appi! Where is the police station? Kus on politsei? I’m unwell Ma olen haige I need a doctor Mul on vaja arsti Getting around/recognizing signs Tänav Street Puiestee Avenue Maantee Boulevard Väljak Square Kesklinn Town centre Takso Taxi Trollibuss Trolleybus Tramm Tram Buss Bus Lähtekoht Departure Sihtkoht Destination Apteek Chemist Pood/kauplus Shop Avatud/Suletud Open/closed N (Naised) Female toilets M (Mehed) Male toilets Days of the week Monday Esmaspäev Tuesday Teisipäev Wednesday Kolmapäev Thursday Neljapäev Friday Reede Saturday Laupäev Sunday Pühapäev Eating out You shouldn’t have any trouble ordering in English in Tallinn, Tartu, Pärnu or Haapsalu, and many restaurants (not just the tourist traps) have menus in English. In more remote rural areas, menus are likely to be in Estonian only. I don’t eat meat Ma ei söö liha What do you want to drink? Mida soovite juua? A beer, please Üks õlu, palun A glass of white/red wine Üks klaas valget/punast veini Cheers Tervist The bill, please Arve, palun The menu Eelroad Starters Magustoidud Desserts Suupisted Snacks Taimetoidud Vegetarian Estonian specialities Sült Meat jelly (usually veal) Hapukapsas Sauerkraut Heeringas hapukoorega Herring with sour cream Suitsukala Smoked fish Kalamari Fish roe Meat Liha Kalkun Turkey Kana Chicken Sealiha Pork Veiseliha Beef Biifsteak Steak Sink Ham Pardiliha Duck Lambaliha Lamb/mutton Fish Kala Ahven Perch Forell Trout Koha Pike-perch Lestafilee Plaice fillet Lõhe Salmon Fruit and vegetables Kukeseened Chanterelles Puravik Ceps Õun Apple Apelsin Orange Maasikas Strawberry Kurk Cucumber Porgand Carrot Kartul Potato Salat Salad Seened Mushrooms Sibul Onion Küüsla Garlic Drinks Tee Tea Kohv Coffee Piim Milk Olu Beer Siider Cider Valge vein White wine Punane vein Red wine Õunamahl Apple juice Mineraalvesi gaasiga/gaasita Sparkling/still mineral water Other Kook Cake Leib Bread Võileib Sandwich Suhkur Sugar Jäätis Ice cream Leib Rye bread Sai White bread Supp Soup Juust Cheese Pannkoogid Pancakes Riis Rice Numbers One Üks Six Kuus Two Kaks Seven Seitse Three Kolm Eight Kaheksa Four Neli Nine Üheksa Five Viis Ten Kümme Enjoy the silence It may not have been written with Estonians in mind, but Depeche Mode’s chart-topping single ‘Enjoy the Silence’ could almost be the country’s national anthem: its chorus, “Words are very / Unnecessary / They can only do harm”, has the feel of an ancient Estonian proverb. No wonder there’s a bar in Tallinn that bears the band’s name (and, until recently, played only Depeche Mode songs). Estonians love silence and, like Greta Garbo, they want to be alone. They can sit in company without talking for minutes on end and later remember the occasion as a delightful, even exciting, one. An Italian visitor to Estonia once complained of his time there: “Nobody talks!” Not talking has advantages, especially for Estonian men, who live in horror of saying the wrong thing or making fools of themselves. It eliminates the need for small talk, too. When Estonians do speak, they are direct. Ask someone how they are and don’t be surprised to hear: “Not at all well.” (This sometimes scares Americans.) Estonians are adept at dead-pan irony and a twinkle in the eye should tell you that a joke is being made, quite possibly at your expense. If you can laugh at yourself, you will charm these reserved but witty people. A host of Estonian sayings confirm this thrifty approach to words: “First think, then say it”; “Weigh everything carefully seven times before making a move”; “Talking is silver, silence is gold”; and the rather chilling “May thy face be as ice”. Estonians like their personal space: Russian bear hugs are not for them. Traditionally, a neighbour’s house is quite close enough, thank you, if you can see the smoke from the chimney. Ask an Estonian where the best beach is and he or she will direct you to the least crowded one, preferably one you can have all to yourself. Estonians like forests and empty landscapes; like the mobile phones they are so fond of, they need regular peace and quiet to recharge. When they complain that a remote island has become too crowded, they are probably referring to the occasional party of Finnish cyclists, not a horde of tourists. Estonians are quietly romantic, but they are not prone to fits of passion, especially in public. When the jilted lover of an Italian restaurant-owner in Tallinn had the faithless man murdered, Estonians were relieved to learn that the vengeful woman was Russian. In Jaan Kross’s short story The Ashtray, an Estonian political prisoner in transit in Russia strikes up a conversation with a detainee from Romania and reflects: “I have always had difficulties in reacting to a southern temperament. The likes of us – or at least of myself – do not understand it entirely. One never knows how thick the space is between outer shell and core. Where theatricality ends and gravity begins. Is everything merely stage-setting, or does it all come straight from the heart?” Estonians are also pragmatic. Cast as a “subject people” by various invaders, they are used to getting around officialdom and the silly restraints imposed on them. Being stubborn is seen as a virtue. They do not like being told what to do, even when they want to do what they are being told to do, such as vote “Yes” in the recent referendum on joining the European Union. They are deeply libertarian and really don’t care what people get up to so long as it doesn’t affect them. They are not impressed by status. Estonian folk tales are not about knights, nobles or kings; instead, their heroes are down-to-earth, clever people who trick the boss or double-cross invaders. When you talk to Estonians, the trick is not to confuse reticence and a lack of pretension with being cold-hearted, dull or miserable. They party (and drink) as hard as they work. They have a good sense of humour and make loyal and generous friends. They are unsnobbish and discreet, and they respect your personal space. Suffering the silence is worth it in the end.
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