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D Park-Hotel, Palmse, T 032 23626, F 032 34167, http://www.phpalmse.ee. Fresh, light, pine-clad rooms in the former distillery building of one of the countrys most attractive manor estates. Top-floor rooms have lovely lake views; some doubles have baths. F Ranamännid, Käsmu, Vihula vald, Lääne-Virumaa, Neeme tee 31, T/F 032 38329. Attractive guesthouse made from two houses a stones throw from the beach. There are eight simple rooms, some with shared toilets and showers. G Must Kass Kamping, 723 81, Peterburi maantee, T 603 3081, F 050 36 288, mustakassikorts@hotmail.com. About 30 km east of Tallinn in Kodasoo, this place is easy to find thanks to the red sign at the roadside. Charming, peaceful and hospitable, with several small chalets (200 EEK per person) and camping spaces (60 EEK) surrounded by forest. Round-the-clock hot water and electricity; on-site café, plus a rustic sauna house. D Fra Mare, Ranna tee 2, T 47 24600, F 47 24601, http://www.framare.ee. The usual array of health and beauty treatments, including mud cures, in a large spa-hotel near the beach. The endless corridors have a slightly antiseptic feel, but the rooms are spacious and comfortable. Best avoid the restaurant though. D Kongo, Kalda 19, T 047 24 800, F 047 24 809, http://www.kongohotel.ee. Five minutes walk from the medieval castle, with the most modern and tasteful rooms in town: wooden floors, light-wood furniture and a cream and beige colour scheme. Free morning sauna. D Promenaadi Hotell, Sadama 22, T 047 37 254, F 047 37 250 http://www.promenaadi.ee. Part of this seafront hotel is housed in a 19th-century villa, but it has a modern feel, with garish orange-and-blue decor. Free morning sauna, parking, discounts out of season. E Altmõisa Guesthouse, Tuuru küla, Ridala vald, T 47 29699, F 47 92185, http://www.altmoisa.ee. On the remote northern coast of Matsalu Bay prime bird-watching territory this eco-friendly hotel shows the benefits of using locally-made furniture, textiles and natural materials, such as the reed roof. Great value rooms and very romantic. The restaurant uses organic fruit, vegetables and berries from the surrounding gardens. Children under seven free. E Elle-Malle Guest House, T/F 047 32 072, http://www.vormsi.ee/ bka/turism/ellemalle.html. This delightful wooden forest house, with a veranda-style dining room, has rooms in the cottage and a double in a wobbly-looking windmill (summer only). A Ammende Villa, Mere puiestee 7, T 44 73 888, http://www.ammende.ee. This lavish Art Nouveau villa is found en route to the beach. Rooms in the main house are all suites scattered with approriately decadent fin-de-siècle furniture; those in the neighbouring gardeners house are cheaper and less cheerful.
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