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As you’d expect in a country that gained independence through the Singing Revolution, music is hugely important in Estonia. During the Soviet era, when there was almost no nightlife and songs were subject to censorship, there was a flourishing underground rock scene. Come the revolution, however, Europop arrived and, for a country that had missed out on disco, the temptation of techno, techno, techno proved too great.

Aruban-born Dave Benton, of Eurovision fame (he and national hero Tanel Padar won the event for Estonia in 2002), has the best band name in town, King of Spades. Unreconstructed rockers should look out for Smilers, primal-screamer Peeter Volkonski, Eesti Keeled’s acoustica and Ultima Thule. Progressive punks Vennaskond are Estonia’s answer to Muse. Blues and folk are also flourishing.

During the Soviet era, when jazz was a prohibited expression of western decadence, Tallinn was one of the few places in the Soviet Union where you could hear anything like it. Today, Tallinn hosts a spring jazz festival (Jazzkaar). The best local band are the Weekend Guitar Trio, with Jaak Sooäär and saxophonist Raivo Tafenau.

While Estonian pop has hit a rocky patch, its classical musicians are blooming. Arvo Pärt, who fled the country with his family in 1980 and eventually settled in Germany, is one of the few living composers anyone has heard of. His haunting Cantus in memoriam Benjamin Britten has provided instant atmosphere in scores of BBC Radio 4 dramas. Other contemporary composers to look out for include Veljo Tormis (folk song meets avant-garde) and former rock musician Erki Sven Tüür.

Ensembles to look out for include Hortus Musicus, whose spirited renditions of early music are a feast for the eye as well as the ear. The innovative NYYD ensemble performs works by the likes of Louis Andriessen, John Adams and Michael Nyman, as well as up-and-coming Estonian composers. Don’t miss the Estonian Philharmonic Chamber Choir, energetically led by Tõnu Kaljaste.

The Estonian Opera has room for both moderate novelty (works by Orff, Britten and contemporary Estonian composers Eino Tamberg, René Eespere, Timo Steineri, Rimo Kangro) and tradition (Verdi, Mussorgski and so on). Built originally for drama, the acoustics of the opera house cannot compete with those of Stockholm or Helsinki, although they have improved with recent renovations. Singers to look out for include the long established Mati Palm and Teo Meister (bass), sopranos Riina Airenne, Nadja Kurem and Pille Lill, tenor Mati Kõrts, baritone Jassi Zahharov and bass Leonid Savistski. There are only occasional performances from visiting companies. The opera is also home to the Estonian ballet.

From mid-May to September, the opera is closed and performances tour the country. Don’t miss performances by Estonia’s national choirs (such as the Ellerhein Girl’s Choir), world-renowned Estonian conductors Eri Klas, Neeme Järvi and son Paavo Järvi, or the Estonian Philharmonic Chamber choir. For information about Estonian music, consult http://www.emic.kul.ee, which has information in English. For details of classical music concerts, see http://www.eestikontsert.ee

Estonia Concert Hall, Estonia puiestee 4, T 614 77 00. This beautifully renovated venue is the city’s finest auditorium. It also houses Eesti Kontsert, which promotes concerts nationwide; ticket office Mon-Fri 1200-1900, Sat 1200-1700, T 614 7760, http://www.concert.ee">http://www.concert.ee.

Mustpeade Maja, Pikk 26, T/F 631 3199, http://www.mustpeademaja.ee. This enchanting 15th-century guildhall hosts regular classical music concerts.

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