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KKK Stenhus, Pühavaimu 13/15, T 699 7780, http://www.schlossle-hotels.com">http://www.schlossle-hotels.com">http://www.schlossle-hotels.com">http://www.schlossle-hotels.com. 0700-1100, 1200-1500, 1900-2230. Refined but not too stuffy, the Hotel Schlössles restaurant serves up five-star food in an impossibly romantic vaulted cellar. Try turbot tartare with tomato, dill, rocket salad and truffle juice or baked langoustine and crayfish tails with saffron cream sauce. KK Controvento, Vene 12, T 644 0470. 1200-2300. Beloved of Italian expats and tourists, Controvento is home to the best vitello tonnato in the Baltics. The restaurant has cool white walls trimmed with red and green, a calm space to concentrate on the food. Expect a public dressing-down if you dont book ahead. KK Klafira, Vene 4, T 667 5144, http://www.klafira.ee. Daily1200-2400. Dont know your borscht from your blinis? Then this cosy inn is a great place to learn the ropes of Russian food. The menu is long, but you wont go wrong if you plump for pelmeni, pancakes with salmon roe and sour cream. Plenty of vegetarian food, too. KK Kuldse Notsu Kõrts, Dunkri 8, T 628 6567, http://www.schlossle- hotels.com. 1200-2400. Pleasant street-side terrace, porcine window boxes and a refined rustic-style interior with apposite Estonian sayings daubed on the walls. The food is traditional and solid bacon-laced bread, giant knuckles of pork with mustard, wild boar with juniper berry sauce, pigs ears, fried liver, meat jelly but prices are rather high. KK Maikrahv, Raekoja plats 8, T 631 4227, http://www.maikrahv.ee 1200-2300. Upmarket cellar restaurant serving inventive dishes, such as piglet with sage, polenta and cider sauce, and old Estonian favourites, like blood sausage with sauerkraut, on silver platters no less. Occasional live classical music. KK Mõõkala, Kuninga 4, T 641 8288. 1200-2400. This popular and romantic seafood cellar restaurant (booking essential for dinner) offers earthy dishes like herrings in batter or refined dishes such as crayfish with an oriental touch. The building was once the town executioners house: watch the low ceiling as you enter or you too might lose your head. KK Must Lammas, Sauna 2, T 644 2031, http://www.mustlammas.ee. Mon-Sat 1200-2300, Sun 1200-1800 Formal but friendly and clutter-free, it transports you to Georgia via the food rather than the decor. Carnivores will savour the succulent shasliks, spicy beef balls and piquant lamb soup, but veggies will be relieved to find roasted Georgian cheese with cowberry, marinated eggplant and cabbage roll with mushrooms among the options. Adventurous wine buffs should try a sweet Georgian red. KK Olde Hansa, Vanaturu kael 1, T 627 9020, http://www.oldehansa.com. 1100-2400. The off-Raekoja location, medieval theme and crowded summer terrace may scream tourist trap, but this place is as popular with Tallinners as foreigners. The menu reflects the cosmopolitan nature of Hanseatic Tallinn Andalusian salmon, slow-baked Wittenberg pork in beer, dried elk meat with juniper-ripened beef. Portions are huge and best washed down with a pot of honeyed beer. KK Tanduur, Vene 7, T/F 631 3084, http://www.tanduur.ee. 1200-2400. One of the few decent ethnic eateries in Tallinn. Its dimly lit, refreshingly flock-free and, for those used to the bhajis-and-lager culture of British curry houses, off-puttingly formal. The dishes are generous, tasty and properly spiced, if a little pricey. A good takeaway option if you are self-catering.
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