KK Scandic Rannahotell, Ranna puiestee 5, T 32 945. 1200-2400. More minimalist than Ammende Villa, but no less stylish, this light, cleanly designed restaurant just behind the beach offers extremely accomplished food at surprisingly reasonable prices. Eat outside rather than in if possible, as the main dining area is a little snobby. KK Seegi Maja, Hospidali 1, T 30 555. 1100-2400. Inspired by Pärnu’s Hanseatic heyday, with a candle-lit interior, wine served in goblets and waiters in medieval dress. The house speciality, only for unreconstructed carnivores, is baked bear in honey. K Kuursaal, Mere puiestee 22, T 20 367, http://www.parnukuursaal.ee. 1200-0100. A cavernous wooden tavern with a cheerfully chaotic atmosphere. Expect stomach-lining, rib-sticking Estonian fare: herring and mash, pork with wild mushrooms, beer and pasta. K Steffani Pizzarestoran, Nikolai 24, T 31 170. 1100-2400. An easy-going place with a terrace overlooking St Elisabeth’s. The service is unusually relaxed, children are welcomed, and the pizzas are more than decent. K-KK Kuursaal, Promenaadi 1, T 047 35 505, http://www.kuursaal.ee, May-Sep only, daily 1000-0200. The lovely wooden Kuursaal has a menu crammed with bizarrely named dishes such as Dr Hunnius’ manoeuvres (vodka shot, pickles and honey, named after the doctor who researched the curative properties of mud). The food, thankfully, is far from gimmicky. K Kohvik Werner, Ülikooli 11, T 07 441 274. Mon-Sat 1200-2200, Sun 1200-2000. Opposite the university, this atmospheric café has been in business since 1895. On the menu you’ll find staple Estonian dishes like herring with sour cream and boiled potatoes. K Püssirohukelder, Lossi 28, T 07 303 555, http://www.pyss.ee. Mon-Thu 1200-0200, Fri and Sat 1200-0300, Sun 1200-2400. Vast tavern in an 18th-century brick-walled gunpowder cellar, with large chunky tables, baskets, barrels, live Estonian music and an outside courtyard terrace. Main courses are huge and hearty and come with mountains of potatoes: pork with baked cheese and mushrooms, salmon, hake, casseroles and stews. Try the house red beer. K Teatrikohvik, Vanemuise 6, T 07 440 140, Sun-Thu 1000-2300, Fri and Sat 1000-0300. The theatre café has a terrace with panoramic views of the city. K Wilde, Vallikraavi 4, T 309764, http://www.wilde.ee. Mon-Sat 1000-2100, Sun 1000-1800. A converted 19th-century printworks, whose name wittily links Oscar Wilde with the original owner (pronounced Vilde) and the 19th-century Estonian writer Eduard Vilde. Besides classic pub fare, there’s steak flambéed in Irish whiskey and Tipperary mincemeat pie. Excellent coffees too.
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