Toompea is spooky, windswept, remote and aloof and Estonians are understandably ambiguous about it. Although an Estonian stronghold was established here in the 11th century, Dome Hill (as the name translates) was the seat of foreign power and nobility between the 13th century and Estonia’s declaration of independence in 1918. Tension between the noble Upper Town and the Lower Town, home to merchants and craftsmen, often ran high, hence the wall and gatehouses that separate the two. Today, the intricate streets are medieval in layout, but many of the buildings were built after the Great Fire of 1684 and are neoclassical in appearance. The most imposing building is the meringue-like Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, completed in 1900 and erected as an unmistakable symbol of Russian authority. Much older is the Toomkirik (Cathedral Church), an austere and awesomely dignified structure around which leaves whirl in windy weather. The hated hammer and sickle flew from Toompea castle’s tallest tower, Pikk Hermann Tower, from 1944 until it was boldly replaced by the Estonian tricolour in 1989. Today, Toompea is still the seat of power, with an abundance of elegant government buildings and embassies, while the glorious houses have been snapped up by diplomats and a handful of wealthy locals. SightsLossi plats (Castle Square) Toompea’s main square has been the site of a fortress since ancient times. The Teutonic Castle was built by the German Knights of the Sword in 1229 and improved by their successors, the Livonian Order. All that remains today, however, are the west and south walls and three grey towers. The dizzyingly high Pikk Hermann (Tall Hermann) was completed in the late 15th century.State Assembly/Parliament Lossi plats 1a, T 631 6357, http://www.riigikogu.ee. Book in advance for tours, Wed, Thu and Fri 1000-1600. Free. Rational and elegant, the pink-and-white neoclassical parliament building, rebuilt after a fire in 1918, provides a fine antidote to the florid flamboyance of Nevsky Cathedral. Inside, though, there’s a surprise: the interior is pure Expressionism, with lemon ceilings, ultramarine walls and a dizzying zigzag motif. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral Lossi plats 10, T/F 644 3484, http://www.hot.ee/hsobor. Daily 0800-1900. Free. Estonians loathe this neo-Byzantine symbol of Tsar Alexander III’s Russification policy, named after the Russian noble who defeated Christian crusaders in 1242, and sigh with resignation when this rippling, fudge-coloured symbol of foreign rule is used to illustrate yet another travel article. Some locals, however, concede that it is an impressive piece of architecture and that the richly decorated interior, awash with icons and mosaics, is worth at least a glimpse. Some say Nevsky is cursed because it is built on the grave of Kalev, Estonia’s ancient mythical king and father of Kalevipoeg, the eponymous hero of Estonia’s national epic. Created in the 19th century to cement a sense of national identity, it celebrates Estonian values like hard work and perserverance. Kalevipoeg, who is constantly having to fend off invaders, winds up trapped in hell, but we are assured that he will rise again to build a new Estonia. Toomkirik (St Mary’s Cathedral) Toom-Kooli 6, T/F 644 4140, http://www.eelk.ee/tallinna.toom. Services in Estonian (Sun, 1000) and Latvian (every third Sunday in the month, 1300). Built by the Danes in the first half of the 13th century, St Mary’s looks much as it did in the 15th century, although the wonderfully sparse interior was rebuilt after the 1684 fire. The white walls, with red and white trimmings around the pointy windows, look as if they are alive with grubby giant crustaceans: in fact, these are the coats-of-arms of noble families and many date from the early 17th century. One of the most elaborate tombstones in the church is that of the French-born general Pontus de la Gardie, sculpted by Arendt Passer in 1595. De la Gardie was an impoverished but skilled noble warrior who was high commander for the Swedes during the Livonian War. His descendants were influential figures, at one time owning Haapsalu and the island of Saaremaa. De la Gardie had the good fortune to marry into a noble Swedish family but the ill fortune to drown in the Narva River in 1585, four years after recapturing Narva from the Russians. The importance of the Scottish-born admiral Samuel Greig (1735-88), who served in the Tsarist army and was a favourite of Catherine II, is illustrated by a splendid white marble monument, sculpted by Giacomo Quarenghi, architect of the Narva Gate in St Petersburg. The obelisk monument recalls Ferdinand Von Tiesenhausen, a scion of one of Estonia’s most prestigious Baltic German families, and son-in-law of Russia’s General Kutuzov (of Battle of Borodin fame). Von Tiesenhausen died at the Battle of Austerlitz in 1805 and his corpse was brought to Reval by his brother and finally laid to rest in St Mary’s; he was reputedly the inspiration for Tolstoy’s Duke Bolkonsky in War and Peace. Estonian Art Museum Kiriku plats 1, T 644 9340. Wed-Sun 1100-1800. 20 EEK. Housed in the neo-Renaissance Knighthood House, home to the First Republic’s Foreign Ministry, this musem houses temporary exhibitions drawn from the collection of the Estonian Art Museum, which will move to its permanent home in Kadriorg in 2005. Stenbock House Rahukohtu 3. On your left, before you reach the Patkuli Stairs, built in the 19th century to link the Upper Town to the railway, stands a vast white neoclassical 18th-century structure, now home to the Estonian cabinet, whose ‘e-government’ system, a world first, allows ministers to conduct paper-free meetings. Noblemen’s residences Kohtu Street. The neoclassical building at number 8 was designed by Carl Ludwig Engel, city architect of Tallinn. The 19th-century city palace of Count von Ungern-Sternberg (number 6), was built by Baltic German Martin Philip Gropius, great uncle of architect Walter Gropius. The imposing residence of the Üexküll family (Kohtu 4) is once again the Finnish Embassy, as it was in pre-war Estonia. Kohtu 2 belonged to the von Tiesenhausen family. The haunted house Toom-Kooli 13. Number 13 Toom-Kooli belonged to the Baltic-German Taube family, which sold it to the state after Estonia declared its independence. During the Independence War, several British officers were housed in Tallinn, one in this house. The unfortunate officer allegedly complained about the presence of ghosts and was left so disturbed by his stay that he had to be hospitalized. His counterparts in the Estonian army were also driven out by spooks. Hoping to force the Taube family to buy back their haunted property, the Estonian state took the matter to court but lost, as Estonian law makes no provision for the paranormal. Kohtu street viewing platform You’ll have to elbow your way through the crowds in peak season, but it’s worth it for the stunning view of Tallinn’s higgledy- piggledy rooftops, Oleviste church and the sea beyond. To the right, you can see Pirita, Kadriorg and Lasnamäe. Monument to the restoration of independence Corner of Falgi tee. At the corner of Falgi tee, a large boulder inscribed “20 August, 1991” commemorates the restoration of independence, after fears that Soviet troops would storm Toompea had finally subsided. On 23 August, 1989, the human chain from Tallinn to Vilnius, which graced TV sets around the world, started on this hill. Around two million people held hands across some 600 km to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop pact. Neighbouring Lindamägi (Linda’s Hill) is named after the unveiling of Adamson’s graceful sculpture of Linda mourning Kalev (1920). During the Soviet time, when laying flowers here could earn you a prison sentence, it became a symbol of collective grief for victims of Soviet oppression. A plaque reads simply: “To remember those taken away.” Just south lies the peaceful Hirvepark (Deer Park). Kiek in de Kök Komandandi 2, T 644 6686. Tue-Fri 1030-1800, Sat and Sun 1100-1630. 15 EEK, 7 EEK concessions, pensioners and disabled, family ticket 30 EEK. Preschool children free. Free every last Friday in the month. Free with Tallinn Card. The city’s strongest tower (“Peep in the Kitchen” in Low German) earned its nickname because those guarding it claimed they could watch what was happening in the kitchens of the houses below. It certainly stood the heat in the Livonian War, playing a vital role in the defence of Tallinn from Russian soldiers. The prolonged siege of 1577 so frustrated the attackers that they blasted a huge hole in the tower but it stood proud and the city held out. Inside is a museum devoted to Tallinn’s fortifications and military history, with temporary photography exhibitions on the lower floors. “Don’t pull, please,” warns an intriguing sign on one cannon. Danish King’s Garden Always open. Free. From here, you can stroll through the park to the Danish King’s Garden, supposedly the site of a key episode in Denmark’s history. King Waldemar II, who conquered Tallinn in the early 13th century, apparently pitched his tent here during the brutal battle for control of the city. Hard pressed by the resilient Estonians, he decided to pray that God would grant him victory, whereupon a red flag with a white cross fell from the sky. This miraculous visitation rallied his troops enough to carry the day and the Dannebrog was adopted as the Danish national flag. Neighbouring Megede (Maiden Tower) now houses the Neitsitorn Café.The tower dates back to the 14th century, and was enlarged the following century. Lühike jalg The streets connecting the Upper and Lower Towns were fortified in the mid-15th-century, creating the so-called “Wall of Hatred”. The two original gates at the top of Lühike jalg were both closed at night to prevent circulation between the two sections of the divided city. Adamson-Eric Museum Lühike jalg 3, T 644 5838, http://www.ekm.ee/adamson-eric. Wed-Sun 1100-1800, closed Mon-Tue. 10 EEK, children and students 5 EEK, free with Tallinn Card. This 16th-century building houses a permanent collection of works by one of Estonia’s most impressive and eclectic artists, Adamson-Eric (1902-68). A painter, portraitist and applied artist, he studied in Paris and Berlin, where he drew inspiration from cubism, fauvism and the Bauhaus. His ceramics are mouthwatering.
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