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Il lupo della steppa, via San Domenico. Hermann Hesse has long been revered by Italian hippies and this bohemian joint, evoking his novel Steppenwolf, is a mellow venue for jazz, cocktails and Viennese cakes. Magazzini Reddocks, via Valprato 68, open until 0500, AICS tessera, free on Fridays. An unusual multi-arts venue in a converted warehouse with concerts, film projections and dancing featuring local DJs. Mood, via Cesare Battisti. Open 1930-2300. Good for aperitifs with the locals. Paris Texas, piazza IV Marco. Open 1900-0100. Seventies-influenced retro bar big on loud colours and plastics. Pastis, piazza E. Filiberto 9/b. Open 1900-0100. A stylish place to kick-start the evening with a Ricard or other aperitifs. Las Rosas, via Bellezia 15/f, T 011 5213907. Open 1930-2300. Mexican-flavoured tapas and cocktails. La Rusnenta, via Vittorio Andreis 11, T 011 4362980. Open 1930-2300. A traditional Piemontese restaurant where the work of local artists provides a constantly changing and innovative decor.
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