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Not satisfied with engineering the architecture of central Turin to their aristocratic taste, the Savoy Dukes also made sure that they had the country retreats to suit. When they fancied a bit of shooting and riding they had the Stupinigi hunting lodge; when a little privacy was needed there was the Racconigi or the Castello della Mandria. Thus to the north, south and west of Turin are a collection of country residences that were the envy of Europe’s royal families. In 1997, the castles around Turin were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Sights

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi

piazza Principe Amedeo 7, Nichelino, Torino, T 011 3581220, http://www.mauriziano.it Tue-Sun 1000-1700, closed Mon. E 6.20 adults, E 2.58 concessions

At the end of Corso Unione Sovietica, the suburbs of Turin give way to green countryside. This is where the Savoy king, Vittorio Amedeo II had his hunting lodge built, commissioning his favourite architect, Filippo Juvarra to design it for him. By moonlight and on clear days, the villa’s icon, a stag mounted on the central copper dome, is visible from quite some distance. More of a palace than a hunting lodge, the building is a typical Savoy combination of Louis XIV French and Italian baroque styles. The palace is set in ample grounds inhabited by deer while the immediate gardens are landscaped along classic symmetrical English lines. In total, 50 rooms are open to the public and together they constitute the Museo di Storia, arte e ammobiliamento (Museum of History, Art and Interior Design). Literally no expense was spared in furnishing these rooms which bring together marble fireplaces, lavish stuccoes and frescoes, gold leaf, exquisite marquetry, priceless carpets and unique pieces of furniture to create an ensemble of breathtaking operatic splendour.

Moncalieri

A virtual suburb of Turin, Moncalieri sits at 219 m atop the Collina Torinese embankment. Originally a separate Roman settlement, it is set out on two levels, the modern symmetrical lower town a prelude to the narrower winding streets of the higher old town. By far the town’s most notable landmarks are the immense Colditz-like hulk of the Castello Reale, piazza Baden Baden T 011 641303, Thu, Sat, Sun 0830-1830, E 2, complete with turrets and a pavilion on each of its four corners and the church of Santa Maria della Scala. The castle was a 15th-century residence of the House of Savoy converted into the baroque style in 1619 by Carlo di Castellamonte and subsequently by Andrea Costaguta and Amedeo di Castellamonte. The interior was fitted out by the other Savoy favourites, Juvarra and Benedetto Alfieri. Today, a portion of the castle is home to the local constabulary but the royal apartments can still be visited in all their baroque splendour.

Unusual in Turin’s church-scape, Santa Maria della Scala is a fine example of Lombard Gothic style, although the entrance dates from the 17th century, and the balustrade is a 19th- century addition. Beautifully restored inside, the church contains a carved organ loft and choirstalls. At the altar is Our Lady of the Assumption by Claudio Francesco Beaumont and in the first left-side chapel a lovely 15th-century terracotta Pieta.

Reggia di Venaria Reale and parco della Mandria

piazza della Repubblica 4, Venaria Reale, T 011 496272/4593675, http://www.parks.it/parcomandria http://www.reggiavenariareale.it Castle: Tue, Thu, Sat 0900-1130, 1430-1730, other days by appointment only. E 5.

The vision of vast wilderness of this park was once the envy of Louis XIV and it is thought that the Reggia Veneria Reale was the inspiration behind Versailles. The Parisian version is more famous and thus the Reggia is sometimes known as il Versailles Torinese. Nowadays, it covers a mere half its former extent but is no less impressive. It is popular for strolls on Sundays, picnics and bike rides.

In terms of architecture, the Reggia (or royal palace) was conceived as a shrine to Diana, the goddess of hunting, a very royal pursuit. Don’t miss the stunning and fully restored Salone di Diana, a breathtaking sight if you’re into art. Beyond the Torre dell’Orologio (clock tower) in the piazza Repubblica, visitors accede to the main courtyard, the Cortile Aulico del Cervo, below which stretch the lower gardens and ponds. Not many of the former royal buildings in the main complex of the Reggia are open to the public but the Galleria Diana and Cappella di Sant-Uberto, designed by Juvarra, give an idea of the former royal extravagance. The rest of the buildings such as the Scuderie (stables) and Citroneria (orangerie) are due to reopen to the public in 2005/6.

The Parco de la Mandria, via Carlo Emanuele II 256, T 011 4993322, Apr-Sept 0800-2000, Oct-Nov 0800-1800, Nov-Feb 0800-1700, is reached from the Reggia by via Amedeo di Savoia. Formerly the grazing ground of the horses of the Reggia, it has a number of important buildings, most notably the Castello della Mandria (or Palazzina Reale), via Carlo Emanuele II 256, Venaria Reale, T 011 4993322, E 5.16, visits by appointment only, the work of Juvarra and Alfieri, and the apartments where Vittorio Emanuele II lived with his morganatic wife, ‘la Bella Rosina’. Don’t forget also the beautiful 13th-century church of San Giuliano, the Castello dei Laghi mini castle from 1860 and the 19th-century country villas of Ville Peroncini e Ghia.

Castello di Rivoli

piazza Mafalda di Savoia, Rivoli, T 011 9565220, http://www.castellodirivoli.org Tue-Thu 1000-1700, Fri-Sun 1000-2200, Mon closed. €6.20. There is a shuttlebus from piazza Castello (corner via Po) on Sat and Sun, E 2.

The culmination of corso Francia due west of Turin is the historically important medieval fortress-town of Rivoli, sitting atop an outcrop at 390-m above sea level. Surveying the surrounding plain is the Castello, a stiff climb but with superb panoramic views. Originally built in the 11th century, the Savoy dukes turned the Rivoli Castle into one of their many sumptuous country residences in the 13th century. Various architects were commissioned to work on the project, causing a sequence of styles to be superimposed on top of one an other. Under Napoleonic rule the castle fell into disrepair, and finally became public property in 1883. The building was given a new lease of life in 1979 when it was transformed into the fantastic and highly recommended Museo d’Arte Contemporanea. It is a fusion of ancient and modern, exhibiting works of photography and short films in rooms evocative of their lavish 16th- and 17th-century past. The exhibition includes works by Hans Richter, Gilbert and George, William Morris and Anselm Kiefer.

Castello di Racconigi

via Morosini 1/piazza Carlo Alberto, Racconigi (Cuneo), T 0172 84005. Park: Apr-Oct Sun and public holidays 1000 until 1 hr before sunset, E 2. Castle: Tue-Sun 0830-1930. E 5. Entry to castle and park E 6.

Due south of Turin beyond the Stupinigi hunting lodge is the beloved out-of-town residence of Carlo Alberto, an enormous and splendid red-brick palace decorated with marble baroque flourishes. The original building dates back to the 12th century and was transformed into another of the Savoys’ royal palaces by Guarino Guarini. However, it was the Bolognese architect Pelagio Palagi who really left his mark on the construction. Inside are a number of wonderfully decadent rooms such as the Grande Salone, full of stucco, statues and gold, the Salone di Diana, characterized by 18th-century bas-reliefs and the Appartamento Cinese, hung with valuable oriental wall coverings. Other rooms display paintings by the hands of artists such as Francesco Beaumont, Claude Dauphin and Jan Miel. Palazzo Racconigi stands in 170 ha of park with undulations, lakes, streams and waterfalls added in the 19th century as well as the neogothic farmhouse, La Margherita. The gardens contain a number of other small and intriguing outhouses such as the Palazzina Svizzera (Swiss Cottage) from 1890, pheasant pen and stables.

Castello Ducale di Aglié

piazza Castello 2, Aglié, T 0124 330102. Castle: Tue-Sun 0830-1830, closed Mon, E 4. Park: Tue-Sun 0900-1300, 1400-1900, E 2. Entry to Park and Castle E 5.

Twenty or so km north of Turin, Aglié is an attractive and romantic little medieval town notable for the baroque Chiesa di Santa Maria and its fine 300-room ducal palace. In 1391 the town passed into the hands of the Savoys who turned the original 12th-century castle from a stronghold into a residential palace. The palace sits in 32 ha of lush verdant grounds landscaped in the English style, punctuated by marble statues and, at their centre, a beautiful 18th-century water fountain depicting the Dora flowing into the Po. Only 18 of the 300 rooms can be visited but they give an indelible impression of aristocratic style and luxury, in particular the wonderful stuccoed and frescoed ballroom, the small art gallery in room six and the Sala dei Monumenti Archeologici which contains many Etruscan, Greek and Roman objects.

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