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Thirty or so miles southeast of Turin the plain rises into a series of undulating hills beautifully raked with the symmetrical parallel lines of vineyards, suggestive of fertility, fruit and well-being. These are the hills of Le Langhe, the region known for producing the most famous of Italian wines, Barolo, as well as the lighter Nebbiolo and the staple, quaffable Dolcetto. This is also the land of the white truffle and a visit to the area is a gastronome’s delight, even more so if you’re into lumache (snails), which are a regional speciality. The capital of the region is the pretty town of Alba. If you’re there in October, don’t miss the donkey race or the town’s truffle festival in the same month. The wine-making villages south of Alba are pretty and earthy and it is possible to taste and buy great wines direct from small and medium-size producers.
Sights
Alba
Alba is not linked to Turin by rail and only infrequently by bus so it is best to explore the area with a private vehicle.
The capital of the region is the pretty town of Alba, still with its medieval red-brick towers which rise above the town and announce it from afar. Within the cobbled streets of the town itself are a number of interesting baroque and Renaissance palazzi and, on piazza Risorgimento, a beautifully restored Duomo containing beautiful Renaissance stalls. The streets are lined with gourmet shops and mouth-watering restaurants which means that Alba – where they make Nutella and Ferrero Rocher chocolates – is more a place to eat, drink and spoil yourself than somewhere to be distracted by anything too cultural. The only exceptions are visits in October to see the donkey race, a parody of the Palio horserace in the nearby rival town of Asti, or for the serious business of the town’s truffle festival where you can spend a fortune on a knobbly nugget of delectably whiffy mushroom.
Around Alba
The aperitif Cinzano is made in the eponymous village 10 km west of Alba, while south of Alba are the wine-making villages of Barolo itself, Annunziata, La Morra and Grinzane di Cavour, each pretty, rural and earthy and with excellent restaurants and wineries.
In Barolo, the Enoteca Regionale del Barolo in the village castle on piazza Falletti is a good place to taste and buy wine, T 0173 56277, open daily for tasting except Thu.
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