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Paella, as much of a Spanish cliché as flamenco and bullfighting, was born in Valencia. The celebrated rice dish isn't the unnaturally yellow concoction advertised on laminated menus in five languages in seaside resorts, but an umbrella term for a delicious array of rice-based dishes cooked in a large, flat pan. The definitive paella just doesn't exist and everyone has their own favourite recipe which is never the same as anyone else's. Some things, however, are constant: the dish is flavoured with garlic and saffron, cooked in a large flat pan and the heat is turned up just before completion to ensure a thin crust on the rice called the 'soccarat'. Paella can be made with meat – traditionally it was made with rabbit or snails or with seafood (paella de mariscos), or occasionally just with vegetables (paella de verdura). Some popular local dishes are loosely based on paella; for example the rice can be replaced with short noodles to create fideúa, or squid ink is added to the stock to make arroz negro (black rice).
Seafood plays a big part in Valenciano cuisine and not always in rice dishes. Look out for the famous prawns of Dénia, justly considered among the finest in the world, or try the catch of the day, often simply grilled over charcoal (a la parilla).
The most celebrated drink in Valencia is non-alcoholic: horchata (orxata in Valenciano) is a sweet, creamy drink made from crushed tiger nuts (which is tastier and more refreshing than it sounds). There are a couple of good horchaterías in the city centre, but the real home of horchata is Alboraia, formerly a small village on the edge of the city. If you are looking for something with more of a kick, try the excellent local wines. The Comunitat de Valencia produces vast quantities of wine, much of it used for blending and export. Nonetheless, many local wines enjoy a growing reputation for quality at a reasonable price, and you'll find something to suit all tastes. In particular, look out for some good robust reds made mainly from grenache grapes produced in the region around Utiel-Requena, and excellent dry whites from the Alto-Túria. There are also some light, fruity rosados (rosés), perfect on a hot summer's day, and a sweet, delicate dessert wine made with Moscatel grapes which is mainly produced in the area around Alacant. And, if you have something to celebrate there is also a local variation of the famous Catalan champagne, cava, on offer.
Don't miss the chance to try turrón, a deliciously sticky nougat-like concoction made with ground almonds and honey. Turrón de Jijona is softer and creamier than the crisper version from Alacant, but both are absolutely delicious. Traditionally eaten all across Spain at Christmas, you'll find it in shops all year round.
Locals tend to eat breakfast on the run, usually a milky coffee and a pastry at around 0730 or 0800. A snack, usually a bocadillo with a beer and a coffee, at around 1100, is pretty common. Lunch is eaten late, from around 1400, and even later on lazy weekends. People might have a few tapas and a drink after work at 0700 or 2000, and dinner, usually a much less substantial affair than lunch, is rarely eaten before 2100 or 2200.
Most restaurants, even the fanciest and most exclusive, offer a set-price fixed menu (menú del día) on weekday lunchtimes. This is usually a three-course affair, with bread, coffee, and occasionally a glass of wine thrown in.
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