If coastline action wears you out, there are some engaging mountain towns in Valencia's interior to retreat to and catch your breath. Lovely Xàtiva provides a welcome respite from the heat and bustle. Every village celebrates its local fiesta, but the best-known is Alcoi's Battle of the Moors and the Christians. SightsXàtiva/Játiva There are frequent trains to Xàtiva from Valencia. Express trains: E 11, single, 50 mins; regional trains, E 2.65, 50 mins. Xàtiva, a tranquil town surrounded by olive groves and vines, has a sprinkling of old stone mansions and is topped with a castle. Set about 60 km south of Valencia and about 30 km inland from Dénia, it’s a popular weekend retreat. The town was the birthplace of two Borgia popes, Calixtus III and his nephew Alexander VI, as well as the painter José de Ribera (1591-1652). It’s a hot and dusty climb up to the castle, but worth it for the stunning views. On the way stop off at the Romanesque Capel de Sant Feliu, which has some striking medieval paintings inside. Just a few stones survive of the Castell Menor, but the Castell Major is largely intact. This is where the Bishop of Urgell, a pretender to the throne of Aragon, was imprisoned by Ferdinand I. You can stroll along the battlements and old walls which snake across the peak. Subida del Castell/Castillo s/n, T 962 274 724. Mid-Mar-mid-Oct Tue-Sun 1000-1900, mid-Oct-mid-Mar Tue-Sun 1000-1800. E 1.80. Back down in the old town, there are still a handful of noble mansions (mainly in private hands and closed to visitors), but much of Xàtiva was destroyed by Felipe V. The townspeople have punished him posthumously in the Museu L'Almodí by turning his portrait upside down. The museum also contains Arabic ceramics and a beautiful artesonado ceiling, and works by Ribera. C/Corretgería 46, T 962 276 597. 15 Jun-15 Sep Tue-Fri 0930-1430, Sat-Sun 1000-1400. 16 Sep-14 Jun Tue-Fri 1000-1400, 1600-1800, Sat-Sun 1000-1400. E 1.80. Alcoi/Alcoy There are about 3 trains a day between Valencia and Alcoi, E 6, single, 1 hr 50 mins and 6 buses (2 or 3 on Sat and Sun). From Valencia to Alcoi daily with Travicoi, T 965 525 261, E 5.5, 2 hrs. Alcoi is a nondescript working town, but each year on the feast of Sant Jorge (Saint George, 23 April) it hosts the biggest and most dramatic enactment of the battle of the Moros y Cristianos. St George came to the rescue during the Battle of Alcoy in 1276 and the festival has been celebrated ever since. The best costumes make it into the town museum, the Casal de Sant Jordi, which has lots of exhibits, models and videos if you miss the real thing. C/Sant Miquel/San Miguel 60, T 965 540 580. Tue-Sat 1100-1300, 1730-1930. Sun and hols 1030-1400. Free.
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Valencia - £7.99
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