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Atmosphère, C/Moro Zeit 6, T 963 925 301. Bus 7, 60. Mon-Fri 0830-2000, Sat 0830-1300. This simple, elegant café is tucked inside the Institut Français. Try the delicious French pastries or the fabulous breakfasts. They also do light lunches including a delicious prix-fixe menu at lunchtimes, which features local ingredients given a Gallic twist. Café de las Horas, C/Comte de Almodóvar/Conde de Almodóvar 1, T 963 917 336. Bus 4, 5B, 6, 8. 0900-2400. Just off the Plaça de la Verge, this is a relaxed little café with faux-baroque decor, including chandeliers and theatrical velvet drapes to keep customers cosy. Café Lisboa, Plaça/Plaza Dr Collado 9, T 963 919 484. Bus 5B, 7, 27, 28. 0900-0200. A big favourite, this arty café looks out over a pretty square with an ancient olive tree and serves great sandwiches and salads as well as cocktails in the evenings. There's a big screen to watch the football at weekends. La Edad de Oro, C/Don Generoso Hernández 1, T 963 924 724. Bus 5B, 7, 27, 28. Tue-Sat 0900-0100, Sun-Mon 1900-0100. Laid-back café in the Barri del Carme, with changing art exhibitions and special events, serving good tapas and sandwiches. It has a delightful summer terrace too. Lounge Café-Bar, C/Estamiñería Vieja 2, T 963 918 094. Bus 5B, 7, 27, 28. Mon-Sat 0930-0130. This is a light and airy café-bar in the Carme, with a couple of battered sofas to relax on, a small but delicious menu of mainly vegetarian snacks (good pasta salads and hummus with pitta), and charming, friendly, Irish owners. It has a coin-operated internet terminal and also offers a wireless service if you are travelling with a laptop. Bodeguilla del Gato, C/Catalans 10, T 963 918 235. Bus 5B, D7, 27, 28. Tue-Sun 1900-0100. Just off the Plaça Negret, this brick-lined tapas bar is decorated with bullfighting posters and serves good, old-fashioned tapas and raciones, from cured meats and cheeses, to pulpo a la gallega, all washed down with a great selection of Spanish and Valenciano wines. Café Sant Jaume, C/Cavallers/Cavalleros 51, T 963 912 401. Daily 1200-0200. Bus 5B. This beautiful little café is set in a former pharmacy, with swirling Modernista woodwork. It has a large terrace in a pretty, tree-filled square and is right in the centre of the citys main street for nightlife perfect for people watching at any time of day or night. Bajando al Sur, C/Doctor Monserrat 32, T 963 925 086. Mon-Sat 1800-2400. Metro line 1, 3 to Ángel Guimerà. All kinds of sandwiches, crêpes and salads, including plenty of vegetarian options, on freshly baked white, brown, or onion bread. La Malquerida, C/Polo y Peyrolón/Polo i Peyrolón 53, T 963 891 186. Bus 18, 41. Metro Alameda. Mon-Fri, Sun 1300-1700, 2030-2400, Sat 2030-2400. This tapas bar prides itself on serving traditional Spanish tapas with a creative twist. In the evenings, it also serves a larger selection of good raciones accompanied by an excellent range of Spanish wines.
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