Bristling with energy, Vancouver’s Downtown peninsula is rela- tively tiny, yet contains several distinct neighbourhoods and the lion’s share of the sights. This is where you’ll find the tallest buildings, the most exclusive boutiques and the fanciest restaurants, as well as the pick of Vancouver’s culture and night- life and a busy, multicultural throng of human activity. A jamboree bag of architectural styles that includes many of the city’s finest structures, coupled with the perpetual mountain and water views, makes for fascinating strolling. South of the city centre, you can skirt the distinctive air-supported dome of BC Place, and the Colosseum-like Public Library, before hitting Yaletown. The massive, old red-brick buildings of this former warehouse district are steadily being converted into spacious apartments and trendy bars and restaurants, frequented by the city’s young and upwardly mobile. Many walk a thin line between panache and pretentiousness, and the whole zone needs time to mellow into a genuine sense of style, but it’s a fascinating area. West of here is the sleazy southern end of Granville Street, which leads back to the centre. To the northeast of the city centre is Gastown, Vancouver’s oldest quarter and a jumble of contradictions. While the restored cobble- stone streets, Victorian mews and red-brick buildings are undeniably quaint, the effect is ruined by a gaggle of tacky souvenir shops, then redeemed by some excellent galleries, antique stores and First Nations art boutiques, as well as Vancouver’s hippest nightclub scene. Immediately adjacent is the sleazy and derelict East Side, home to Vancouver’s down-and-outs, prostitutes, drug-dealers and seedy pawn shops, yet grimly fascinating and possessing a few outstanding buildings and the last surviving examples of once-prevalent neon. South of here is another world again, the big and bustling Chinatown, its streets overflowing with baskets of outlandish produce and aromatic restaurants whose windows display lacquered ducks, slabs of barbecued pork, and plastic replicas of eerily familiar dishes. This is the neck of the peninsula, sandwiched between False Creek to the south with the futuristic silver sphere of Science World and Burrard Inlet to the north. The broad and perpetually vibrant urban zone that occupies most of the peninsula’s western half is known as the West End. This is Canada’s most densely populated area, half of whose inhabitants are aged between 20 and 40, among them Western Canada’s largest gay community. A vibrant neighbourhood atmosphere makes Denman Street and Davie Street two of the best zones for restaurants, bars and people-watching. The tip of the peninsula is entirely occupied by Stanley Park, Canada’s largest urban park. A popular 9-km seawall follows its circumference past beaches and viewpoints, while trails criss-cross its interior. As well as the famous giant trees, the park has a fine aquarium, rhododendron and rose gardens, two restaurants, an open-air theatre, a miniature railway, and a stand of totem poles. Granville Bridge leads south from the downtown peninsula to Granville Island, Vancouver’s Covent Garden but in a maritime setting. Clustered together are a wonderful food market, countless galleries and studios selling arts and crafts, a handful of theatres and restaurants, an art school, boat repair shops and a first-class museum. You can walk west along the water from here to Vanier Park, home of three key museums. The very popular Kits Beach marks the edge of Kitsilano. Once the focus of Vancouver’s counter-culture, the neighbourhood has been taken over by yuppies, with an upmarket yet alternative atmosphere. Sections of 4th Avenue and 9th Avenue offer some of Vancouver’s best shopping, strolling and restaurants. Further west are Point Grey and the city university, several excellent beaches, a couple of fine botanical gardens, and the city’s number one sight, the UBC Museum of Anthropology. The remainder of South Vancouver is distinguished only by a handful of lovely parks and gardens. In the east, however, close to Downtown, are two of the most interesting neighbourhoods. Commercial Drive, once known as Little Italy, is a cosmopolitan, bohemian area, with bags of character and plenty to eat, drink and observe. Moving in the same direction, and maybe even more real, is Main Street south of 6th Avenue, where trendy but gritty little cafés and restaurants compliment a wealth of antique and second-hand stores. Further south on Main between 48th and 50th Avenues is Indiatown, alias the Punjabi Market. And beyond, at the southwestern tip of the dull suburb of Richmond, is Steveston, which has been a fishing village for over a century and still boasts the largest commercial fishing fleet on Canada’s Pacific shore. Across Burrard Inlet from Stanley Park’s northern tip, Lion’s Gate Bridge leads to the North Shore and a string of huge semi- wilderness parks and canyons that head up into the mountains, great for hiking, skiing, giant trees and sweeping views. At its western end, a short ferry ride leads to Bowen Island, an easy taste of the laid-back pace on the Gulf Islands, and one of the best day hikes in the area. At its western end is the picturesque village of Deep Cove, with the city’s best kayak route and neighbourhood pub.
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Vancouver - £5.99
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