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Bottega del Vino, vicolo Scudo di Francia 3, T 045 8004535. Mon, Wed-Sun 1030-1500, 1800-0000. One of the citys oldest and most traditional bars, on a small street off via Mazzini, Bottega del Vino retains its medieval feel, with frescoed walls, wooden tables, chairs and benches, and 120 wines to choose from. The menu is also steadfast in its traditional Veronese format, with polenta, lardo, risotto allAmarone and horse pastisada. Prices, however, have left those of ancient times far behind and skyrocketed, to make it one of Veronas most expensive bars. Caffè Malta, piazzetta Navona 8, T 045 8030530. Mon-Sat 0730-0200. Open all day as a café, Malta comes into its own in the evenings when the atmosphere cranks up a notch or two, as does the volume. Despite the strange suit-and-tie art, the interior is an attractive mix of old walls, exposed pipes and wooden beams. Cocktails are made with panache but there is also beer on tap and the atmosphere is friendly. There's also a good seating area outside in the piazza not Verona's most beautiful, but less touristy than most. Camelot, via Leoncino 7, T 045 8001096. Tue-Sun 1700-0200. For a slightly bizarre Italian pub experience its hard to beat the dim and cavernous Camelot, where a distinctly Italian view of British-/Irish-ness mixes with some very Italian habits. There is Guinness, Bombardier and Kilkenny on tap, grammatically incorrect English graffiti, a Scottish flag and a Union Jack, coffee and bar snacks, Gothic seats and candles, rock music and lots of Italians drinking halves. Cappa Café, piazetta Bra Molinari 1, T 045 8004516. Daily 0800-0200. This café/restaurant/bar is open late with plenty of choice of where to sit either in the square outside, inside in one of the atmospheric rooms, or on the small terrace beside the river. Live music every Sunday. Carro Armato, vicolo Gatto 2a, T 045 8030175. Mon and Tue, Thu-Sat 1100-0200, Sun 1100-0000. One of Veronas most attractive bars, the large Carro Armato buzzes in the evenings, when its usually full with a fairly young crowd sitting on its wooden benches against a backdrop of carefully cultivated flaking walls. The wine list is excellent, as is the simple but delicious food . Friendly, accessible and one of the citys best places for late night socializing. Highlander, via Leoncino 11, T 045 8002261. 1130-1500, 1800-0200, closed Wed. Highlander, supposedly furnished entirely with authentic Scottish pub furniture, was for a long time the location of choice for many of Veronas students and trendy young. Its beginning to look a little tired these days, and has been eclipsed somewhat by Camelot just down the road, but there is still Old Speckled Hen and Newcastle Brown Ale on tap. M27 Caffè, via Mazzini 27/a, T 045 8034242, Tue-Sun 0830-0200. An unusually young, modern and jazzy café and cocktail bar set back from via Mazzini whose drinks include non-alcoholic yoghurt cocktails and frozen margaritas. There is also a limited menu of crostini, salads and sandwiches. Internet use is available, most of the time, and the place comes into its own on weekend nights when it fills up with Veronas young, hip and upwardly mobile. Osteria Sottoriva, via Sottoriva 9a, T 045 8014323. Mon-Fri 1030-2230.The most traditional of via Sottorivas excellent selection of eating and drinking possibilities, this small osteria has battered old wooden tables under the arches which fill up quickly, mainly with ageing locals at lunchtime, and with young people in the evenings. More a drinking place than an eatery, the food is simple but nevertheless good, with horse, vegetables, pasta and excellent meatballs being the mainstays. The wine-list has improved under the new ownership of the Marquis of Fumanelli, who took over in early 2003. Make it an early stop rather than a late one, however, as it closes inhospitably early. Osteria Verona, piazza Erbe 34, T 045 8030888. Mon, Wed-Sun 1030-0200. A corner of piazza Erbe reclaimed from the touristy cafés by the beautiful people of Verona. Especially at weekends the drinkers spill out of this little bar far into the piazza late into the night, with beer as much as wine the tipple of choice.
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