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Osteria Verona, piazza Erbe 34, T 045 8030888. Mon, Wed-Sun 1030-0200. A corner of piazza Erbe reclaimed from the touristy cafés by the beautiful people of Verona. Especially at weekends the drinkers spill out of this little bar far into the piazza late into the night, with beer as much as wine the tipple of choice. Sottoriva 23, 23 via Sottoriva, T 045 8009904. Mon-Sun 1030-0230. With tables outside on one of the city’s most atmospheric streets, Sottoriva 23 soon fills up with Verona’s young and trendy. There is an excellent menu of about 30 whiskies, a similar number of bottled beers, plus cocktails, wine and simple food. Monday evenings sees Lounge Atmosphere, with chill out and music from 1970s erotic movies, Tuesday is Degustazione, with wine, poetry and food, on Thursdays there is live acoustic music and on Sundays Happyritivo includes a free buffet, usually of pasta dishes. Square, via Sottoriva 13-15, T/F 045 597120, http://www.squaresite.net Tue-Fri 1830-0200, Sat and Sun 1530-0200. Verona’s grooviest nightspot is a furniture shop-cum-cocktail bar. Downstairs, a barista with attitude mixes drinks, while in a converted barrel-vaulted cellar, young Veronesi lounge on basket cube chairs in a strikingly modern and vaguely oriental setting, behind white floor-to-ceiling thread curtains. DJ sets of chilled soul with a slight edge play while light glows behind bamboo patterned panels. None of this super hipness gives any sense of coldness, however: there is no dress code, written or unwritten, and the place has a welcoming, friendly and laid-back vibe. Upstairs, at a capuccino bar, there is free internet use, very cool minimalist furniture to buy, a CD-listening area with more avant garde new tunes, and a shop area selling expensive retro sunglasses, studio ceramics and design books. Not to be missed. Taverna Degli Scaligeri, via Sottoriva 24, T 045 590302. Tue-Sun 1900-0200. An Italian-style tavern, Degli Scaligeri has no fake Irish theming, but beer is still the main drink of choice, with Hoegarden, Leffe and Franziskaner among the beers on tap. Wine is also available, and there’s a limited menu, too. There are attractive wooden benches, but the always-on TV is a little off-putting. Al Mascaron, piazza San Zeno 16, T 045 597081. Mon, Wed-Sun, 0830-1430, 1730-2330, Tue 1730-0130. Venue of the moment for Verona’s young and trendy, the crowds spill out from this colourful cocktail bar far into San Zeno’s piazza. The bar, if you can get near it, is decorated with a variety of low-level lights, tiles, fish, and an underwater marine colour scheme. During the day it’s much quieter, but equally full of attitude. Enoteca Cangrande, via Dietro Listone 19d, T 045 595022, enoteca.cangrande@zyme.it Mon-Sat 1100-1400, 1700-0100. A wine shop as well as an atmospheric wine bar, Cangrande, just behind piazza Bra, attracts a smart brand of locals at lunchtime as well as in the evening when food such as polenta with mushrooms and cheese is also available. There is a big selection of wine by the glass. Ai Preti, via Interrato dell’Acqua Morta 27, T 045 597675. Mon-Sat 1900-0200. A healthy mix of tattoos, students and university professors during the evenings and ageing regulars during the day, Preti is a good left-field wine bar with an excellent atmophere, good wine drunk in generous quantities, reasonable prices and no pretensions to grandeur. The name is said to come from a time when priests were given their own special entrance to allow them to frequent the place anonymously.
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