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The line between Italian bars and restaurants is a fine one. Osterie serve food of varying complexity and trattorie often have good, and enormously long, wine lists. There is little tradition of drinking without eating, so the difference is generally one of emphasis – the places in this chapter place drinking above food in importance. In many, however, you can also get an excellent selection of snacks, or even a perfectly good meal. Having said that, Verona’s student population add a lively edge to many of the city’s drinking spots and some stay open well into the early hours. Wine predominates, though most places also have beer on tap and more interesting and adventurous places such as Al Mascaron and Square mix cocktails, too. Having an aperitivo before eating is traditional and pavement tables can get busy in the early evening, though less so than in some other Italian cities. Most cafés also serve alcohol. Verona is poorly served by clubs, most of the area’s big discos being scattered around the lower shores of Lake Garda.
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