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AL Albergo Due Torri, piazza Sant'Anastasia 4, T 045 595044, F 045 8004130, http://www.baglionihotels.com Taking up one side of piazza Sant’Anastasia, the large, plush Due Torri, Verona’s most expensive hotel, looks across to the church of San Pietro Martire. The big reception area, with jousting murals, marble columns and heavy drapes, is slightly Carry On Up The Via Postumia in style. The building is 13th century, though much of the ancient feel of the place from the days when Mozart, Goethe and Garibaldi stayed here has been lost, replaced by a rather generic form of luxuriousness. The 90 rooms are all big, however and there’s no scrimping on furnishings or facilities.

AL Gabbia D’Oro, corso Porta Borsari 4a, T 045 8003060, F 045 590293, gabbiadoro@easynet.it Breakfast extra E23 during opera season. In possibly the best position in town, at the end of corso Porta Borsari, a stone’s throw away from piazza Erbe and opposite one of Verona’s best cake shops, the Gabbia D’Oro has an understated façade, and an interior that smells of exclusivity from the minute you walk through the door. Richly decorated without being overdone, it retains some medieval features such as areas of bare walls and wooden beams alongside the pewter, mahogany and fine carpets. Rooms are similarly plush, and bathrooms are all marble and chrome. None of this, however, makes the supercilious staff any more approachable.

B Accademia, via Scala 12, T 045 596222, F 045 8008440. With an interior design set somewhere around the 1970s, the Accademia has lots of gold, mirrors, chandeliers, marble, dark wood and the occasional incongruous ancient column. Rooms, some of which are generously large, face either a green internal terrace or out onto the street, some straight onto via Mazzini itself, bu the windows are very effective at blocking out the noise. Out of high season there is a business-orientated feel to the place.

C Touring, via Q Sella 5, T 045 590944, F 045 590290. Five floors, two non-smoking, make up this large but friendly hotel near the centre of the city. Rooms have firm beds, flowery wallpaper and fairly plain generic hotel decor. There are no great views and only a handful of balconies, but the facilities are good. All rooms have radios and air-conditioning, and there is a buffet breakfast.

C Victoria, via Adua 8, T 045 590566, F 045 590155, hotel.victoria@ifinet.it Not far from corso Porta Borsari, the hotel Victoria has a fairly modern businesslike feel, despite its claims to possessing ‘the charm of ancient noble palaces’. Rooms are smart but not especially memorable. It’s well equipped though, with all rooms having computers and posh marble bathrooms and some having big stone balconies and jacuzzis.

D Antica Porta Leona, corticella Leoni 3, T 045 595499, F 045 595214. http://www.anticaportaleona.com Set back from via Leoni up a quiet side street, Antica Porta Leona is a handsome hotel, with geranium-hung balconies and fading grey shutters. Inside, apart from an excessive use of burgundy, rooms are plain but reasonably spacious. Bathrooms are on the small side.

D Aurora, piazza Erbe, T 045 594717, F 045 8010860. In a stunning position overlooking piazza Erbe yet set back from its noise, with a great sunny terrace on which to enjoy the excellent buffet breakfast, and with plain but attractive air-conditioned en-suite rooms, the helpful and friendly Aurora is hard to beat in just about every respect and is excellent value for money. Only three rooms look onto the piazza directly, but others of the nineteen have almost equally good views. Those facing the other direction are quieter.

F Locanda Catullo, via Valerio Catullo 1, T 045 8002786, F 045 596987, locandacatullo@tiscali.it No breakfast, cash only. Surprisingly central for such a cheap hotel, the second-floor Catullo is up an alleyway just around the corner from via Mazzini. It has few added extras and makes a big deal over the fact that they won’t look after your luggage for you. However, rooms and corridors are spacious, if plain. Some cheaper rooms lack en-suite bathrooms. Reception is open from 0900-2300 only and there is no lift.

Many of the city’s hotels cluster around piazza Bra, though there are also several along the busy corso Porta Nuova (the main road to the station). Generally, the further south you go, the less pleasant the surroundings.

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