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D Scalzi, via C Scalzi 5, T 045 590422, F 045 590069, http://www.hotelscalzi.it A good value, family-run two-star hotel, Scalzi has some exposed beams but is otherwise generic 20th-century Italian in style. There are an unusual number of single rooms, and some without en-suite facilities. All are air-conditioned however.

D Siena, via Marconi 41, T 045 8003074, F 045 8002182. Complete with dusty plastic flowers, a slightly bumpy lift and staff who look like they, too, need a bit of fresh air, the Siena has a distinctly tired aspect. There’s a quiet internal courtyard for breakfast, however, and rooms, all en suite, have good showers and air-conditioning. Decor is indistinctly modern, and in some rooms, overpoweringly yellow.

D Torcolo, vicolo Listone 3, T 045 8007512, F 045 8004058, http://www.hoteltorcolo.it On a quiet road behind piazza Bra, the all-women run Torcolo has a rare quantity of charm and style in a city with a surfeit of bland hotels. Nineteen rooms on three floors are all individual – those on the third floor, with sloping ceilings, are particularly attractive. Furniture is eclectic, with some beautiful antiques among other more utilitarian pieces. A private collection of modern Italian drawings and paintings lines the corridors, and breakfast, in summer at least, is outside in a small piazza. Rooms are all en suite and have air conditioning, safes, fridges and satellite TV. Low season prices are half those in high season.

D Trento, corso Porta Nuova 36, T 045 596444, F 045 591208, Halfway between the station and piazza Bra, Albergo Trento is a tired hotel surviving mainly on its relatively good value prices. There are a few balconies with geraniums, and rooms are simple with tiled floors and few frills. The decor is from the ‘Fawlty Towers’ school of design, and service is not much better either. It is, however, only 400 m from the Arena, and should you need a not-too-exorbitant place to collapse after a long night at the opera, it might be worth considering.

D Trieste, corso Porta Nuova 57, T 045 596022, F 045 8003510, http://www.hotel-trieste.it Less interesting than the hotel Verona next door, the hotel Trieste is nevertheless a better option than you might expect from its ugly, grey-concrete exterior. There are balconies facing corso Porta Nuova, and though the decor is plain, it is also reasonably warm and homely in style, as well as being sound-proofed and equipped with air conditioning, safes and en-suite bathrooms.

D Valverde, via Valverde 91, T 045 8033611, F 045 8031267. With some trees and even a café or two around, this end of via Valverde, in a generally unpromising area, is not unpleasant, though the hotel Valverde is an ugly square concrete building. Renovated in 2001, the rooms are decorated in supposedly Arte Povera style, all have air-conditioning and en suite bathrooms and some have balconies.

E Al Castello, corso Cavour 43, T 045 8004403. On a narrow road off corso Cavour, Al Castello is a small family-run hotel and restaurant with only ten rooms. The place as a whole has a slightly cluttered, homely feel, though rooms are fairly large, with carpets on wooden floors and some comfortable antiques.

E Armando, via Dietro Pallone 1, T 045 8000206, F 045 8036015. Breakfast E8. In an attractive, quiet area between piazza Bra and Ponte Aleardi, hotel Armando is plain but comfortable, and much better value than all the hotels further south. All 20 rooms have en-suite bathrooms, there is some decent art on the white walls alongside some old photos, and service is friendly. It’s also next door to the good Trattoria al Bersagliere.

E Ciopeta, vicolo Teatro Filarmonico 2, T 045 8006843, F 045 8033722, http://www.ciopeta.it Currently a small and friendly, if simple, eight-room pension above a good restaurant, there are plans afoot to refurbish and extend the Ciopeta, perhaps in time for summer 2004. Prices, presumably, would also rise, however.

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