E Ciopeta, vicolo Teatro Filarmonico 2, T 045 8006843, F 045 8033722, http://www.ciopeta.it Currently a small and friendly, if simple, eight-room pension above a good restaurant, there are plans afoot to refurbish and extend the Ciopeta, perhaps in time for summer 2004. Prices, presumably, would also rise, however. F Arena, Stradone Porta Palio 2, T/F 045 8032440. In some ways more basic than the youth hostel, and certainly uglier, the threadbare Arena has very little going for it except that it is cheap and central. No credit cards, no breakfast, no entry after 0100 (except during the opera when the rule is extended to be “one hour after the opera finishes”) and no extras or luxuries of any kind. The building itself is a brutal concrete lump, but it is at least set back from the road in a courtyard, and is very near Castelvecchio. Rooms without en-suite facilities are even cheaper than the rest. G Ostello della Gioventù Villa Francescatti, 15 Salita Fontana del Ferro, T 045 590360, F 045 8009127. Up the hill behind the Teatro Romano. Bus 73 goes nearby every half an hour or so from the station, but it may be more convenient to get the frequent 11, 12, 13 or 14 (91-92 at weekends) to Ponte Navi and walk the last 15 mins or so. Open 0700-2330, breakfast 0730-0900, rooms closed 0900-1700, lights out 0000. Late return allowed for opera-goers.E12.50 per night including breakfast. Dinner E7.50, vegetarian meals only on request. An old-fashioned hostel in an impressively grand old ex-monastery on the hillside above the city, Verona’s youth hostel makes almost no concessions to modernity, but does what it does fairly well, and admirably cheaply. Comments in the visitors’ book complain about “medieval” bureacracy, but while the curfew and closing hours are a pain, and breakfast is a prison-like experience, the place is clean, attractive and generally efficient. There are 240 beds, all in single-sex dorms, although six rooms can be used by families (”but only families, no couples or groups of friends”). A spill-over building on via Santa Chiara (number 10, down the hill, nearer the river and slightly more modern) holds another 72. Bathrooms are clean and tiled, and there are pleasant gardens where guests can sit even when rooms are closed, but there’s little, if any, privacy available. Information on notice boards can be out of date. D Gardesana, piazza Calderini 20, T 045 7225411, F 045 7225771, http://www.hotel-gardesana.com Dominating one side of Torri’s ancient harbour, the Gardesana is in a building erected by the Venetians in 1452. 20th-century guests included Churchill, Lawrence Olivier, and King Juan Carlos I of Spain. All of this might lead you to expect higher prices, but even rooms with a balcony and lake view are very reasonable. Rooms are simple but classy 18th-century Venetian in style, with heavy antique furniture, en-suite bathrooms, air-conditioning and satellite TV. There is a buffet breakfast. F Onda, via per Albisano, T/F 045 7225895. A few minutes walk east of the old town centre, the Onda is an exceptionally friendly place with an excellent buffet breakfast. Plain modern rooms, all with balconies, mostly look directly out over the lake. Very good value but no credit cards. F Casa Popi, via Gardesana 28, T 045 7400545, F 045 7401892, http://www.casapopi.com Towards the northern end of the town, near the cable car but away from the old centre, Casa Popi has a pool and garden. Modern but family-run, rooms are plain, though some have balconies with semi-obscured lake views. F Dolomiti, via Monti 1, T 045 7400084, F 045 6583189, http://www.dolomitihotel.net An attractive hotel above a restaurant, the Dolomiti has en-suite rooms, all with modern facilities including satellite TV and air-conditioning. There is also an outside terrace and a bar. D Benaco, via Benaco 18, T 0464 505364, F 0464 505973, http://www.onbenaco.com Right on the harbourfront in Torbole, a mere 50 m from the beach and 100 m from the ferry landing stage, the hotel Benaco, is as central as you can get, and has modern, well-equipped rooms and a generous buffet breakfast. There is also a free garage for mountain bikes and windsurfers. E Casa Nataly, piazza Alpini 10, T 0464 505341, F 0464 506223, casanataly@tin.it On a quiet piazza, with geranium-entwined balconies, Nataly is a reliable, good-value option in a good position, with easy access to the waterfront.
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Verona - £7.99
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