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E Casa Nataly, piazza Alpini 10, T 0464 505341, F 0464 506223, casanataly@tin.it On a quiet piazza, with geranium-entwined balconies, Nataly is a reliable, good-value option in a good position, with easy access to the waterfront.

Valpolicella has few good hotels, but some excellent agriturismo options, which, as long as you have your own transport, would make good bases from which to tour the region. See http://www.agriturismoverona.it for more details.

The hills of Lessinia are also not overflowing with hotel options, but if you're walking through the area you might be interested in the basic but extraordinarily situated rifugi, which are a type of bunk barn, often with little or no facilities, but which provide a welcome roof, resting place, and often social meeting point during treks across the mountains. Rifugi are marked on walking maps of the area, or details can be found from the local tourist information or from http://www.prealpiveronesi.it/rifugi.htm

F Lessinia, Piazzetta Alpini 2, Bosco Chiesanuova, T 045 6780151, F 045 6780098, http://www.hotellessinia.it A fairly basic, but good value three-star hotel in Lessinia's biggest town. Hotel Lessinia is open all year round and has a private garage. Rooms are alpine in style and there is also a restaurant and gelateria attached.

F Biotto, via Ca' de la Pela, Sant'Ambrogio di Valpolicella, T 045 7701505, F 045 7702681. Rooms open Easter-mid-Sep. Restaurant open all year round. Restaurant: Thu-Sun 1200-1400, 1900-2200. Biotto is situated on the hills overlooking Sant'Ambrogio and has a great view all the way to Lake Garda. Traditional farmhouse style extends to the restaurant which in summer seats up to 40 people on the terrace outside and serves local dishes such as lasagne with rabbit. There are only two bedrooms, so booking ahead is advised, especially in high summer.

F Torre della Grola, via Zane 8, Sant'Ambrogio di Valpolicella, T 045 7732444, F 045 6884401. Open all year round. Restaurant Thu-Sun 1200-1400, 2000-2200. In an attractive 18th-century building with wooden floors, olive trees, stone walls, wooden beams and a crenellated tower, Torre della Grola is a restored farmhouse with seven bedrooms with en-suite bathrooms. Traditional food in the restaurant includes risotto made with amarone and roasted rabbit.

E-F Albergo Due Mori, contrà Do Rode 26, T 0444 321886, F 0444 326127. Breakfast E5 per person. Kitted out smartly in early 20th-century style, and with an attractive exterior, Due Mori is quiet and spacious, as well as being very well placed for the centre of Vicenza. A couple of double rooms with balconies are especially desirable, but may need to be fought for. Two rooms on the ground floor are equipped for disabled visitors.

F Vicenza, stradella dei Nodari, T 0444 321512. An ex-theatre, the Vicenza is a stone’s throw from piazza dei Signori and has an ageing charm: comfortable but slightly ragged around the edges. Many rooms have balconies over the quiet street below, and all have small en-suite bathrooms.

D Broletto, via Accademia 1, T 0376 326784, F 0376 221297. Breakfast E5 per person. With only sixteen rooms in a smart building the Broletto is cosy and homely and fills up quickly in the summer. Balconies have geraniums growing, rooms have big beds and some have wooden-beamed ceilings.

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