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Once the summer season of Arena and Teatro Romano spectaculars dies away, the Teatro Filarmonico takes over as the primary space for music, especially classical, though there is also a jazz season here . Other venues around the city also host classical recitals, such as those organized by the city council in the central piazzas, or in the courtyard of Juliet’s house. Again, however, these are usually confined to the summer months, but are mostly free. The church of San Bernardino also holds occasional classical concerts, as does Castelvecchio .

Big international pop acts also use the Arena for concerts, which hosted Björk and Massive Attack in 2003. Less likely venues for international superstars include the pool and spa complex at Caldiero which James Brown graced with his presence in 2003. Cutting edge sounds can be heard on a rather irregular basis at Interzona, otherwise local live music tends to be of a more laid-back variety. Bars and cafés with regular live music include Cappa Café and Invidia via San Vitale,19/a, T 045 596926. Mon-Fri 0800-1900, 2100-0400, Sat 1900-0400. Live music every Friday and Saturday from October to March. Veronese groups predominate).

Both the Teatro Romano (summer) and the Teatro Filarmonico (spring) have excellent jazz seasons, with big international names being attracted especially to the former.

Teatro Filarmonico, via dei Mutilati 4, T 045 8051891, F 045 8031443, http://www.arena.it">http://www.arena.it Tickets, via Roma 3, 1000-1200, 1630-1930, or until 2100 on performance days. Booking line T 045 8005151, F 045 8013287. The building, rebuilt after the Second World War, has never quite recovered the prestige it had in its glory days at the beginning of the 18th century. Its first incarnation, designed by Bibiena in 1716, was almost completely destroyed by fire in 1749. The latest version remains impressively grand inside and is still a fine concert space attracting some very good international names. Concerts are usually traditional, but are well-attended by well-dressed locals.

Scuola Civica Musicale, via Lega Veronese 10/a, T/F 045 8030325 (enquiries 1500-1830). The Civic School of Music organizes occasional evening concerts. Mostly classical, but occasionally also jazz.

Interzona, Stazione Frigorifera Specializzata 10, ex Magazini Generali, via Santa Teresa 16, T 045 505005. http://www.izona.it At the heart of just about everything cutting edge that happens in the city, Interzona organizes exhibitions, installations, film and music events in a giant disused ex-refrigeration plant in the industrial heartland in the south of the city. Buses being very infrequent around the southern parts of the city, you may have to get a taxi, or be prepared to walk a long way through a less salubrious area of town.

A summer season in the Teatro Romano and a winter sesason in the Teatro Filarmonico both attract big names, some of whom even graduate to the Arena for popular concerts. Outside of these, however, there is little regular jazz around, though it's always worth checking local listings for special events.

Arena, piazza Bra, booking line T 045 8005151, F 045 8013287, http://www.arena.it">http://www.arena.it Box office, 6/b via Dietro Anfiteatro, 37121 Verona (Mon-Fri 0900-1200, 1515-1745, Sat 0900-1200, 21 Jun-1 Aug performance days 1000-2100, non-performance days 1000-1745). The world’s most spectacular opera theatre was rediscovered as a performance space in 1913, when Aida was first performed there. The summer opera season is now a firm event on the European calendar. Enormous, epic, traditional productions of the best known operas are the Arena’s stock in trade, and Verona’s most successful tourist attraction. Franco Zeffirelli directed the lavish 2003 productions of Carmen, Aida, Rigoletto, Nabucco and Turandot. Operas are alternated every night so that even those staying for a long weekend can see two or three operas if they want.

Tickets can be bought over the phone, via the website, in person from the box office or a number of other outlets or by post, enclosing a bank draft and specifying the date of the performance, the seat sector and the number of tickets required. Tickets range in price from E17.50 (E14 for under 26s and the over 60s) for a seat on the Roman steps high above the stage, to E154 for a central seat near the action. In order to book online it is necessary to first register, though the process is fairly straightforward and there are instructions in English. Up until mid-June tickets are posted out. After this they must be collected from the box office in person.

Travel Guides | Verona | Arts and Entertainment | Music Verona
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