E Bar Pilar, C/Moro Zeit 13, T 963 910 497. Bus 7, 62. 1200-2400. A timeless, old bar just off the Plaça del Tossal, where the thing to do is order up a portion of mussels (clòtxines in Valenciano, mejillones in Castellano) and toss the shells in the orange buckets ranked underneath the bar. (It's not called 'the Temple of Mussels' for nothing.) There's a good range of other tapas too. It's always packed and noisy, but there are a few tables; if you want one, be sure to get your name on the waiter's list. E Casa La Pepa, C/Conquista 8 bajo, T 963 925 447. Bus 7, 27, 81. 1400-1800 and 2100-late. A charming, old-fashioned place decorated with bullfighting posters and old photos, serving tasty Valenciano dishes including aubergines in parmesan, lamb cutlets with a honey sauce, and fideuà. Prices are very reasonable and service is brisk and cheerful. E D Cel, C/Ribalta 6, T 963 528 638. Bus 4, 6, 8, 10, 14, 16, 17, 19, 35, 36. Metro Xàtiva. 1000-2400. A small, cosy café with red walls, beams, and some funky art on the walls and on the tables. It's tucked down a side street between the Plaça de l'Ajuntament and the Mercat Central, and serves a good range of sandwiches, a few tapas and a daily lunch fixed-price menu. E Enbandeja, C/Sant Vicent Màrtir/San Vicente Mártir 24, T 963 940 695. Bus 11, 27, 62, 71. 0700-2200. This self-service cafeteria isn't special, but it is spotlessly clean, always full and painted in cheerful, bright colours. It offers surprisingly decent and very cheap food (there's a lunch menu for E 7.90 and breakfast menus for under E 2), and isn't a bad city-centre lunch option if you are on a tight budget. E La Lluna, C/San Ramón 23, T 963 922 146. Bus 5B, 7, 27, 28. Mon-Sat 1330-1530 and 2030-2330. Closed Easter week and Aug. This is a sweet, stylish little place tucked away in the lively Barri del Carme which serves a good range of veggie and vegan dishes. Try the Greek salad or the crisp vegetable croquetas. Good, home-made desserts too. E Pizzeria Dante, C/Calatrava 4, T 963 917 075. Bus 5B, 7, 27, 28. 1700-2400. A good, very reasonably priced pizzeria with cosy, brick walls and wooden tables just off the Plaça Negret. Buzzy, and always crowded, it's a good place to start off a night in the Barri del Carme. The pizzas are made in a wood-fired oven and are pretty decent, but avoid the unremarkable antipasti buffet. E La Tastaolletes, C/Salvador Giner 6, T 963 921 862. Bus 5, 6, 8, 16, 26, 28, 29, 36, 95. Tue-Sat 1400-1600 and 2030-2400, Sun 1400-1600. This is a busy, colourful little vegetarian restaurant in the heart of the Barri del Carme. It attracts a young, arty crowd and offers all kinds of tasty dishes including home-made lasagne and pitta bread with falafel. Unusually, the excellent-value lunch menu is offered every day of the week. The walls have changing art exhibitions and there's a small outdoor terrace in summer. EEE Albacar, C/Sorní 35, T 963 951 005. Metro Colón. Tue-Fri 1330-1530, 2100-2400, Sat 2100-2400. Closed Easter week and Aug. A smart, traditional restaurant with a pretty, interior garden area, which serves fresh, modern interpretations of classic Mediterranean recipes accompanied by an excellent wine list. The walls are lined with a mixture of 18th-century still lifes and contemporary art. EEE Ca Sento, C/Méndez Núñez 17, T 963 301 775. Bus 19, 31. Tue-Sat 1330-1530 and 2100-2330, Sun-Mon 2100-2330. Closed Aug. This is one of the most talked- about restaurants in the city, where you can tuck into classic, regional recipes that have been given a creative new twist by rising young chef Raul Alexandre. Try any of the exquisite dishes he prepares using the famous prawns from Dénia, but save room for gorgeous desserts like chocolate-filled ravioli.
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Verona - £7.99
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